Day 6: Moving Day

Weather Update: Occasional Showers, Cloudy with Sunny Intervals. High 18°C

Elevation Above Sea Level: 557 metres (1,827 ft)

Kruja & Shkoder: A Journey Through History

The day began before sunrise, my backpack strapped on and ready for another adventure. At 6:15 AM, I left for Kruja, arriving by 8 AM to a town still rubbing the sleep from its eyes. The eerie quiet of the empty streets, the mist clinging to the mountain slopes, and the absence of tourists gave the town a raw, untouched feel. I imagined how different this place must be in the summer, bustling with visitors eager to explore its historic past.

Needing to free myself of my luggage for a few hours, I stopped at a small café and asked if I could leave my bag there. The owner kindly agreed but reminded me to pick it up by noon, as they would close early—a gesture of trust and hospitality that warmed my heart.

With my load lightened, I set off toward the Old Town Bazaar and Kruja Castle. Only a five-minute walk from the town centre, the castle is reached through the narrow, cobbled streets of the bazaar. The climb was steep in some places, but nothing too challenging.

Kruja Castle, though not as grand as Berat Castle, still held its own charm. Like many historic sites, it had been transformed to cater to tourism, with hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, and a museum filling the grounds. Though the ruins themselves offered little in terms of exploration, the panoramic views from the top were breathtaking. Standing there, high in the Albanian mountains, I could see why this fortress had been such an important stronghold for Skanderbeg and his rebellion against the Ottomans.

A Brief History of Kruja & Its Fortress

Nestled between the Sari Salltik mountain (1,176 meters, 3,858 ft) and the Ishëm River, Kruja is a city of roughly 19,400 people, only 20 km north of the capital, Tirana. It’s a place of deep historical significance, known primarily as the home of Albania’s national hero, Skanderbeg.

The Fortress of Kruja played a pivotal role in his resistance against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. Built-in the 5th or 6th century, the fortress withstood three major sieges under Skanderbeg’s command, repelling armies many times its size. Even Mehmed II, known as "The Conqueror," failed to take the stronghold during Skanderbeg’s lifetime. It wasn’t until 1478, a decade after the hero’s death, that the Ottomans finally overpowered it. Today, the fortress stands as a symbol of Albanian resilience, a beacon of national pride.

Inside its walls, you’ll find the National Skanderbeg Museum, the ruins of the Fatih Sultan Mehmed Mosque, an ethnographic museum, a Bektashi Teqe, and remnants of an old Turkish bath. It’s a blend of history and legend, a place where the past still lingers in the stones.

Exploring the Old Bazaar: A Step Back in Time

Descending from the castle, I wandered into the Old Bazaar, a marketplace that has stood for over 400 years. Though it has been modernized over time, the essence of history remains in its cobbled streets, its charming wooden stalls, and the craftsmanship displayed in its goods. Once, this bazaar was a vibrant trade hub, likened to a small piece of Istanbul near the Adriatic. In its heyday, it had around 150 shops, selling everything from textiles to handcrafted copperware. Today, about 60 remain, catering primarily to tourists.

I spent time admiring the handmade rugs, the delicate silver jewellery, and the beautifully engraved wooden souvenirs. The smooth, worn stones underfoot whispered stories of centuries past, of merchants calling out their wares, of travellers bartering for exotic goods.

Onward to Shkoder

Time moves differently when you're lost in history, but reality eventually calls. I planned to take a direct bus from Kruja to Shkoder, but as is often the case with travel, things didn’t go as expected. Instead, I had to return to Tirana first, then catch a coach to Shkoder from there. It added extra travel time, but I took it in stride—after all, the journey itself is part of the adventure.

By mid-afternoon, I was back where I had started in Tirana, boarding a bus for a 1.5-hour ride north. If all went smoothly, I would arrive in Shkoder by 5 PM, ready to explore yet another historic Albanian gem. I met a wonderful lady on the bus, a medical student in Tirana but going home for the weekend, we had a great talk for several hours. Photo of Yasmin attached

Final Thoughts

Every step through Kruja was a walk through history. From the ghostly quiet of its early morning streets to the storied walls of its ancient fortress, it was a place that spoke of defiance, tradition, and timeless beauty. Though my stay was brief, the echoes of the past lingered long after I had left.

Next stop: Shkoder. Another day, another adventure.

Until tomorrow,

Andrew