Day 1: Rozafa Castle – A Journey Through Time

Weather Update: Cloudy with Occasional Rain. High 22°C

Elevation Above Sea Level: 130 metres (430 ft)

A Rainy Morning Start

The day began with an overcast sky, the threat of rain looming. I waited until mid morning, hoping for a break in the weather before setting out on my journey. With a push bike rented for just 5 Euros, I embarked on the 6-kilometer ride to Shkoder Castle. The route was mostly easygoing until the final stretch—a steep climb that had me pushing my way to the top.

At the entrance, I paid the 4 Euro fee (or 400 Lek). Still, as a senior, I got a discounted rate of 300 Lek. Stepping onto the castle grounds, I was immediately struck by its imposing structure, standing tall above the city like a silent guardian of history.

Exploring the Castle’s Mysteries

Walking through the main gate, I noticed eight arched recesses—four on each side. Their original purpose remains unknown, leaving room for speculation. Were they used for storing weapons? Stabling animals? No one knows for sure.

Moving further inside, I came across the first Bailey, the outer defensive courtyard, which remains mostly intact. Beyond this, the second Bailey lies in ruins, though sections of the old walls still stand defiantly against time. At the far end of the fortress, the final bailey, or citadel, dominates the landscape.

One of the most intriguing features was the cisterns within the second bailey. These ancient reservoirs once provided water to the people living inside the castle, but today, they are little more than neglected relics. Unfortunately, they’ve become dumping grounds for plastic bottles and litter—a frustrating and avoidable disrespect to history.

At the citadel, I discovered a hidden gem—a deep, narrow staircase that wound its way underground. With only my phone flashlight not good enough to guide me, I descended the first section, but as the tunnel continued into darkness, I decided against going further. The mystery of where it led would have to remain unsolved for now.

Rozafa Castle: A Stronghold of Legends and History

Perched on a rocky hill where the Buna and Drin Rivers meet, Rozafa Castle has stood the test of time, bearing witness to Albania’s tumultuous past. Originally an Illyrian stronghold in the 4th or 3rd century B.C., the fortress later served under Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, and Ottoman rule. Its irregular design follows the natural contours of the hill, making it a formidable defensive structure.

The castle's three baileys each tell their own story. The second bailey holds the ruins of a Venetian church, later repurposed into a mosque by the Ottomans. But beyond its physical history, Rozafa Castle is steeped in legend.

According to folklore, three brothers attempted to build the fortress, but every night, their work would mysteriously collapse. An old man advised them that to complete the castle, they must make a great sacrifice—one of their wives had to be immured within its walls. The brothers agreed not to tell their wives, leaving fate to decide. However, two of them broke their promise, warning their spouses. The wife of the third brother, unaware of her doom, was the one chosen.

As she was sealed within the stone, she made a heartbreaking request—to leave holes for her right eye, hand, breast, and foot, so she could continue to care for her young child. This sorrowful tale is forever woven into the spirit of Rozafa Castle.

An Evening Among Travelers

After a day immersed in history, I treated myself to a traditional Albanian meal—Turli with Rice, washed down with a 500ml beer, all for just 600 Lek (NZD 11.42). It was the perfect way to unwind after hours of exploring.

Returning to my hostel, I joined fellow travellers from around the world—USA, Denmark, Germany, Japan, Colombia, Albania, the Netherlands, and the UK. We shared stories, experiences, and laughter, the universal language of adventurers.

Navigating Shkoder’s Streets by Bike

Cycling in Albania is an adventure in itself. Cars have little regard for cyclists, often pulling out suddenly and forcing you to swerve or brake at the last moment. Twice today, I barely avoided collisions. One particularly close call led to a brief but intense confrontation—I caught up to the driver, who had his window down, and shouted for him to watch out for cyclists! Whether he understood my frustration or not, I’ll never know.

Final Thoughts

Shkoder Castle is more than just a historic site; it is a place where legend and reality intertwine, where ancient stones tell tales of battles, sacrifices, and resilience. Despite the occasional frustration with modern-day neglect, the experience was nothing short of captivating.

Tomorrow brings a new adventure, another chapter in my journey.

Until then,

Andrew