Day 2: Mesi Bridge – A Ride Through History

Weather Update: Sunny, 22°C

Elevation Above Sea Level: 130 metres

Cycling to Mesi Bridge

Today, I rented another bicycle for a journey to Mesi Bridge, an iconic Ottoman-era structure spanning the Kiri River. Although the road appeared flat, I quickly realized it had a slight incline as I pedalled toward the mountains. The return trip, however, was noticeably easier, coasting downhill back to Shkoder.

The warm, sunny weather made for a pleasant ride, though I took a break at a roadside café to cool down with a refreshing can of beer. Nearby, a local fisherman was selling freshly caught fish, expertly descaling and cleaning them as customers stopped by. It was a simple yet fascinating glimpse into everyday Albanian life.

Upon arriving at the bridge, I was momentarily disappointed to see a modern concrete bridge in the foreground. But as I got closer, the true Mesi Bridge emerged from behind it, a beautiful relic of the past nestled closer to the river.

Mesi Bridge: A Masterpiece of Ottoman Engineering

Built in 1768, the Mesi Bridge stands as one of Albania’s best-preserved Ottoman bridges. Spanning 108 meters, it features 13 stone arches, the largest stretching an impressive 21.5 meters. Originally constructed to connect Shkoder with Drisht and the Cukal region, the bridge played a crucial role along the ancient trade route between Shkoder and Kosovo, a path dating back to pre-Roman times.

Commissioned by Mehmet Pasha Bushati, the bridge’s construction took place in two phases. The first phase saw the completion of the main arch and four smaller arches, laid with carefully positioned stones that give the bridge a distinct staircase-like appearance. However, severe flooding later necessitated an extension, adding five arches to one side and four to the other.

Standing atop the bridge, I looked down into the crystal-clear waters of the Kiri River. The pristine, transparent waters reminded me of New Zealand’s untouched rivers—so pure that I could see straight to the riverbed. The view was simply breathtaking.

Returning to Shkoder

After spending an hour exploring the bridge and taking in the scenery, I began my return trip. As I cycled back into town, something odd caught my attention—the road’s drain covers were missing. Every 20 to 30 meters, gaping holes lined the street, posing a serious hazard to cyclists and pedestrians. Some had old tyres stuffed inside them to prevent accidents, but most were left dangerously exposed.

The hostel manager, Rob, speculated that the covers had been removed intentionally to prevent flooding, but I wasn’t convinced. To me, it seemed more likely that they had been stolen and repurposed elsewhere. Regardless of the reason, it was a stark reminder of the infrastructural challenges faced by the region.

A Relaxing Evening

Later in the afternoon, I wandered down Shkoder’s main street, soaking in the city’s lively atmosphere. I stopped at the local mosque and had a look inside afterwards I treated myself to a wood-fired pizza and a cold beer, a satisfying meal for just 900 Lek (NZD 17.07).

Back at the hostel, I spent the evening watching football with fellow travellers before retiring for the night around 9:00 PM.

Looking Ahead

Tomorrow marks my final day in Albania before I head to Montenegro, where I plan to explore Kotor for the next two or three days. The journey continues, and I’m glad you’re still following along.

Until the next adventure,

Andrew