Day 5: Berat Castle

Weather Update: Early Morning Showers, Sunny Periods High 19c

Elevation Above Sea Level: 90 Metres

A Journey to Berat

I was up early and out the door by 7 AM, catching the local bus to the terminal for just 40 lek (NZD 0.77). Just as I arrived, I hopped onto the departing bus to Berat, a scenic ride that cost me 5 Euros (NZD 9.51). My first impression upon arrival? Wow. Berat is a breathtaking town, nestled along the riverbank, with houses that seem to emerge from the rocky slopes like a living painting. Towering above it all is the majestic Berat Castle, sitting proudly at an elevation of 214 metres (702 feet), an invitation to step back in time.

The steep walk to the top was a challenge, but as I ascended, I imagined what it must have been like centuries ago—armies preparing to storm the castle, only to be met with its formidable defences. Walking through these ancient walls, I could almost hear the echoes of history whispering through the stones.

The History of Berat Castle

Berat Castle has witnessed the rise and fall of empires. The Romans burned it down in 200 B.C., but its strategic importance ensured that it was continuously rebuilt. Under Emperor Theodosius II in the 5th century, its walls were fortified to keep out invading barbarians. Justinian I reinforced it again in the 6th century, and by the 13th century, it was further expanded under Michael I Komnenos Doukas, a Byzantine noble. A remnant of that era, a monogram of red bricks embedded in the walls, still stands as a testament to the castle’s enduring legacy.

During the mid-14th century, Berat Castle was under the rule of John Komnenos Asen. The north-facing main entrance, protected by a fortified courtyard, hints at the castle’s once-impenetrable defences. Though weathered by time, the fortress remains a magnificent sight, its sprawling grounds once housing much of the city's population.

Unlike many fortresses of its time, Berat Castle was predominantly Christian, featuring nearly 20 churches, most of them dating back to the 13th century. Only a single mosque existed here, built for the Turkish garrison, though today, only its minaret base remains.

Berat Castle’s significance is even commemorated on the reverse of Albania’s 10 lekë coin, a nod to its lasting cultural heritage.

The Churches of Berat Castle

Among Berat’s greatest treasures are its churches, their walls adorned with breathtaking frescoes and intricate iconostases. Some of Albania’s most famous icon painters, including Onufri, Kostandin Shpataraku, and the Zografi Brothers, left their artistic mark here. Sadly, time has taken its toll on many of these churches, and only a few remain intact. The Onufri Museum, located within the castle, showcases some of these incredible works, preserving the region’s artistic legacy.

Arriving at the castle, I noticed the ticket booth was empty—perhaps a lucky free-entry day? However, disappointment set in when I realized that the churches were all closed, leaving only the bars and restaurants open.

Life Within the Castle Walls

Surprisingly, Berat Castle is not just a relic of the past; it remains alive. Approximately 200 families still reside within its walls, their homes blending seamlessly into the ancient stone structures. Some houses are tiny, tucked away in corners, while others are larger, showcasing the deep history of continuous habitation. There are also guesthouses and even a hotel within the castle, making it an ideal place for an extended stay. If I had known how charming Berat would be, I would have planned for more than just a day trip.

Though my visit was brief, Berat left a lasting impression. Walking through its historic streets felt like stepping into a time capsule. I wish I had more hours to explore, but adventure calls—I’m off to Kruja Castle and its bazaar tomorrow before heading to Shkodër in the late afternoon.

Until the next journey!