Day 3 & 4: Rainy Days and Hidden Gems in Tirana
Day 3: A Washed-Out Day
Weather Update: Heavy rain, high of 18°C
Elevation: Above Sea Level: 90 Mettres
Tuesday marked my first real day of rain since November in Brisbane, Australia. The downpour was relentless, so I spent most of the day tucked away in a cozy café, watching the world go by.
While sipping a beer, I met two English ladies who had flown to Albania on a whim. Their trip cost just £75 (NZD 170), including return flights and a hotel stay—sometimes, flying is cheaper than taking a bus or train! We swapped travel stories, laughed over our unexpected adventures, and made the most of an otherwise dreary day.
Day 4: Exploring Tirana Under Gloomy Skies
The sky was heavy with clouds, threatening another day of rain, but I decided to venture out anyway. My first stop was a quick roadside breakfast—a warm, cheesy Byrek opposite the Namazgah Mosque. Every bite was a delicious, flaky delight until I was too full to finish.
Tanners' Bridge: A Lost Beauty
A short walk away, I arrived at Tanners' Bridge, an 18th-century Ottoman-era footbridge that once connected Tirana with the eastern highlands. From a distance, it looked like a photographer's dream, but as I approached, reality set in. The bridge, though historically significant, has become neglected—overgrown grass, broken tiles, and scattered litter tarnished its charm. It's a shame to see such a piece of history treated with such disregard. Tanners' Bridge (Ura e Tabakëve): Originally part of Saint George Road, this Ottoman bridge played a key role in Tirana's trade and commerce. Restored for pedestrian use in the 1990s, it remains a cultural heritage monument today.
A Stroll Past Tirana Castle
Leaving the bridge behind, I walked past Tirana Castle, snapping a few more photos along the way. Not far from the castle, I stumbled upon a quaint outdoor restaurant surrounded by shrubs and small bushes—the perfect place to enjoy a quiet beer.
Resurrection of Christ Cathedral: A Grand Symbol of Faith
Continuing my exploration, I reached the Resurrection of Christ Cathedral, an awe-inspiring Albanian Orthodox church that dominates the cityscape. One of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in the Balkans, its towering bell tower stands at 46 metres, while the domed ceiling soars 32 metres high. The cathedral complex includes a library, chapels, and a small museum, making it a fascinating site beyond just its striking architecture.
Fun Fact: The bell tower was designed by Archbishop Anastasios himself and represents the four Evangelists who proclaimed the Resurrection.
Final Thoughts on Tirana
Tirana has been a welcome mix of rest and adventure. My hostel, recently renovated, was comfortable, and the staff, Elkid and Jordan from Australia, were incredibly helpful, offering tips and local knowledge. However, one thing I noticed is the number of children begging in cafés. Most seem under ten, their parents exploiting them instead of sending them to school. Even adults, well-dressed and clearly not homeless, frequent cafés asking for money. If you sit outside, expect to be approached multiple times.
Another striking difference from back home in New Zealand is the smoking culture. While we've tightened smoking regulations, here, it's as prevalent as ever.
Since the fall of communism in 1991, Albania has rapidly developed into one of Europe's fastest-growing nations. Coffee culture and dining out are a way of life here, with cafés, bars, and restaurants seemingly on every corner.
One last note—I'm still waiting on my refund from Lemon Breeze Hostel. They're attempting to cancel my booking to avoid a negative review, but I won’t let that slide.
Looking Ahead
That’s a wrap on my time in Greece and Albania in another couple of days I have changed my plans which I love doing and I'm going to stop in Kruja for the day and Shkoder for 3 days then I will travel to Montenegro. I’ll be uploading photos soon. If you’ve been following along, I’d love to hear your thoughts. Drop me an email through my website or directly from the map feature.
If you're travelling, stay safe, explore fearlessly, and take care out there!