Day 1 & 2: Athens To Tirana & Finding My Way
Weather Update: Sunny High 21c
Elevation Above Sea Level: 90 Metres
Day 1:
Departure and Travel to Tirana
I woke up at 6:30 am with the plan to leave by 7:30 am, but I was ready by 7 and left a little earlier. I caught the metro from Neos Kosmos to Metaxourgio, where I was once again faced with the dilemma of which exit to choose. After a quick decision, I was on my way. There was an issue with the ticket scanners at the metro station in Neos Kosmos, but when a few people slipped through, I followed suit. My card had given me 10 free trips, but I found that it had expired since I hadn’t used it within the allowed time. However, I wasn’t going to pay again, especially when others were taking advantage of the system. I arrived at the bus depot an hour early, which I always prefer in case of any issues. I grabbed a large sandwich and a bottle of water for breakfast before boarding the bus. My seat number was 23, but I was moved by the conductor to a different seat. The bus ride was scenic, with breathtaking views of snow-capped mountains rising on either side, the beauty of which words cannot truly capture. We crossed over the Rio-Antirrio bridge, which is a State of the Art Bridge in Greece, next to the city of Patras, and is one of the world's longest multi-span cable-stayed bridges. It crosses the Gulf of Corinth near Patras, linking the town of Rio on the Peloponnese to Antirrio on mainland Greece. We arrived at the border crossing at Kakavia, situated in a high mountain pass at about 1200 feet, with towering peaks reaching up to 5000 feet.
Kakavia Border Crossing
The Kakavia border crossing connects southern Albania with northwestern Greece. On the Albanian side, you'll find the village of Kakavijë, nestled in the Gjirokastër County, while the Greek side is home to the village of Ktismata. I stopped here for a late lunch, but the sandwich I chose was disappointing, so I ended up discarding it. Crossing the border was easy and laid-back, though there were a few issues with some of the other passengers that were eventually resolved. I had considered stopping at Gjirokastër in Albania but decided to push forward to Tirana, only to realize later that I could have stayed overnight in Gjirokastër and continued on another bus the next day. The views on the way to Tirana were spectacular, with rivers winding through valleys and snow-covered peaks in the distance.
Tirana: Arriving in the Capital
When we finally arrived in Tirana 12 and half hours later we were stuck in traffic for a while, similar to the daily traffic jams that Aucklanders face, caused by an accident. Once the traffic cleared, we were able to move freely, though we arrived about half an hour late at the bus station.
At the station, I was immediately approached by an unregistered taxi driver who quoted me 10 euros for a short 3-5 km ride. However, thanks to a helpful local on the bus, I learned that the taxi fare should only be around 400 Lek. I decided to take a public bus for just 40 Lek (NZD 0.40), saving a considerable amount. It’s a reminder to always be cautious when dealing with unregistered taxis – they’ll often try to overcharge unsuspecting tourists.
The Hostel Experience
I found my hostel not far from the bus stop, and when I checked in, I was led to a room that had two men cuddling and watching movies in bed together. I took a deep breath and spoke with the night attendant, who assured me it was fine. However, by 11:30 pm, they were still there, so I decided to head to the TV room and sleep on a couch for the night. I understand personal choices, but I feel that such things should be kept private not in a shared dormitory.
Day 2: Exploring Tirana
The next morning, I left a note asking for a refund and moved to a different hostel – New Bazaar Hostel – which was only a 20-minute walk away. I spent the day working and blogging at Europa Caffe, a popular spot for remote workers with free Wi-Fi. After a productive few hours, I decided to check out the Tirana Castle, located just a short walk from the square.
Tirana Castle
Tirana Castle, or Fortress of Justinian, dates back to before 1300 AD and served as the heart of the city. The castle has three known towers, though only remnants remain above ground, such as a 6-meter-high Ottoman-era wall. The area inside the walls has been transformed into a vibrant traditional bazaar with craft stores and restaurants.
The castle is currently undergoing restoration to become a tourist attraction, and a mosaic commemorating Albania's 100th anniversary was recently unveiled nearby.
The Namazgah Mosque
Just next to the castle stands the Namazgah Mosque, a truly stunning building. Constructed after the fall of communism in 1991, it became necessary due to the lack of central mosques in Tirana. The interior is beautifully decorated, and the mosque serves as an important cultural and religious site in the city.
A Bite of Tradition
After visiting the mosque, I stopped at a local bakery and had a Byrek – a savoury pastry filled with meat, spinach, or cheese. It’s a popular dish throughout the Balkans, but the one I had was a bit disappointing as it lacked filling. Regardless, it was an interesting experience to try the local food. Back at the hostel, I met two Japanese travellers, two Albanians, and an Australian who had been travelling for 11 months. It was refreshing to talk to like-minded travellers with the same goal of exploring the world.
End of Day 2
As the day came to a close, I settled into my cosy bed, reflecting on my adventures so far. It’s been a great start to my travels, and I’m excited to share more of my journey with all of you. Stay tuned for more as I continue to explore new places and meet incredible people along the way.