Day 3 & 4: Another Day Tomorrow

Weather Update: Sunny High: 19 - 21°C

Elevation Above Sea Level: 220 Metres

Day 3: A Slow Start, A City in Protest

After covering over 14 km yesterday, my joints felt every step this morning—even after walking more than 700 km in total on this journey. My first stop was a pastry shop, where I picked up a massive sandwich, nearly the size of a 12-inch Subway, for just 2.50 Euros (4.74 NZD). I ate the first half in a nearby park and saved the rest for later at Monastiraki Square. Upon arriving, I noticed a heavy police presence. It wasn’t until later that I discovered why.

A Tragic Train Incident and Lingering Protests

On February 28, 2023, Greece witnessed one of the deadliest railway disasters in Europe. A head-on collision between two trains in the Tempe Valley claimed 57 lives, with 81 seriously injured and nearly 100 more suffering minor injuries. The crash, involving an InterCity passenger train and a freight train, was a tragedy that shook the nation.

The aftermath led to widespread protests, vigils, and strikes by railway workers and Metro staff demanding safer conditions. Even today, over a year later, demonstrations continue to erupt across Athens—hence the strong police presence throughout the city’s key locations.

Price Differentials: The Two Sides of Athens

I wandered through the flea markets, debating whether to grab an early lunch. Yesterday, I stopped at a Greek restaurant where a 500ml beer cost just 3 Euros (5.69 NZD), yet at another place down the street, the same drink ranged from 4 to 6 Euros. Pricing here seems to be dictated by location rather than quality.

Later in the afternoon, I finally grabbed a meal—pita bread stuffed with two sausages and a red onion salad. Edible, but far from impressive. Greek street food, at least from budget eateries, tends to be a little bland.

Tiki Bar:

Curious about the city’s price disparities, I popped into a Tiki Bar I had spotted earlier. The owner explained that taxes play a huge role. In upmarket areas, businesses face a whopping 40% tax, whereas in districts like Avissynias Square, taxes are lower, and so are the prices. This explains why a 500ml beer in Avissynias Square costs just 3 Euros, while upscale areas charge 6 Euros for a smaller 330ml bottle. It’s no surprise that some restaurants are packed while others sit empty.

After a relatively slow-paced day, I returned to the hostel, where the staff continued to be warm and welcoming. My roommates, however, were another story—one insisted on keeping the balcony door open due to body odour, yet he was also a smoker. The result? A mix of stale air and cigarette smoke drifted into the room while the heat pump ran at 26°C. Hostel life always comes with its quirks.

Day 4: Scaling Philopappou Hill and Athens from Above

This morning, I met an Australian traveller who had explored the world extensively. She suggested climbing Philopappou Hill for breathtaking views of Athens. We had a long conversation about travel, hostels, and the people you meet on the road. Although we’d likely never cross paths again, she promised to follow my blog—a small but meaningful connection.

The climb itself was a challenge. Instead of following the winding paths, I opted for a direct ascent straight up the hill. The terrain alternated between wooden steps, concrete, and loose rock, requiring careful footing. But reaching the top was worth it—the view was spectacular. The sea of light-coloured houses stretched endlessly into the hills, and the Acropolis stood in full glory against a near-cloudless sky.

Philopappou Hill: A Monument to Time

Philopappou Hill, also known as Muses Hill, is steeped in history. It takes its name from Philopappos, an aristocrat whose death in 116 AD deeply saddened Athens. In his honour, the city and his sister, Balbilla, erected a grand tomb on the hill’s southwest slope. The marble structure, now known as the Philopappos Monument, still overlooks Athens today.

Beyond its historical significance, the hill played a pivotal role in shaping the city’s past. It was from here that Venetian forces bombarded the Parthenon during the 6th Venetian-Turkish War, causing much of the damage seen today. Some argue the attack originated from a nearby church in Plaka, but the scars on Athens remain the same.

On the south side of the hill, the Dora Stratou Theater hosts traditional Greek performances. The west side hides Socrates’ Prison—a lesser-known but intriguing site worth seeking out.

From the hilltop, I had a clear view of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

Odeon of Herodes Atticus: Music and Ruins

Built in 161 AD by Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife, Aspasia Annia Regilla, this grand theatre once held 5,000 spectators under a cedarwood roof. Destroyed in 267 AD by the Heruli, it lay in ruins until the 1950s, when restoration efforts revived its former glory. Today, it serves as the main venue for the Athens Festival, hosting renowned performances from May through October.

Avissynias Square: Athens’ Quirky Heart

After my hike, I spent the afternoon in Avissynias Square, a lively hub for antiques, handmade crafts, and local treasures. Here, restaurants line the square, offering budget-friendly meals and drinks. Nowhere else in Athens will you find a beer cheaper than 3 Euros.

Locals here are animated, passionately debating and gesturing wildly as they seek agreement from those around them. It’s an amusing spectacle—half argument, half performance.

The square’s name possibly stems from an Ethiopian (Abyssinian) community that once lived in the area. During the Ottoman period, it was known as Manganaria, after a now-demolished church. Today, the flea market draws in collectors and bargain hunters, with everything from vintage coins to old books on sale.

Bedway Hostel: A Lesson in Hostel Etiquette

Back at the hostel, I settled in for the evening. Around 9:30 pm, new guests arrived—chatting, laughing, and carrying on as if they were the only ones in the room. After enduring it for a while, I pulled back my curtain and let them have it. Their response was instant—they backtracked, apologized, and quickly hushed. In the morning, I learned they were in town for a half marathon.

It always baffles me how some people treat shared hostel spaces like their personal playgrounds. A little consideration goes a long way.

Final Thoughts: A City of Gods, Myths, and History

Athens exceeded my expectations. As a student, I hated history, but as a traveller, I now see it as a collection of human stories. The influence of Greek and Roman civilizations is undeniable—their gods, their architecture, and their belief systems shaped the world we know today.

Greek Beliefs and Culture

The Ancient Greeks believed that prayers and offerings to the gods were necessary for protection and favour. Statues of deities filled temples and homes, where people left gifts to seek divine blessings.

Roman Influence and Legacy

Romans admired Greek aesthetics, engineering, and philosophy. They incorporated Greek design elements into their architecture, and their gods played an active role in daily life—mirroring Greek traditions with their own adaptations.

As I prepare to leave for Albania, I know Athens is a city I’ll return to. There is still so much to see, so many stories left untold. But for now, the journey continues.