Day 347

Exploring Kranj: Churches Closed but the Pungert Never Disappoints

Arrival in Kranj

Kranj, the fourth-largest city in Slovenia, is the main urban centre of Upper Carniola and the Slovene Alps. Just 20 kilometres northwest of Ljubljana, it sits at the confluence of the Kokra and Sava rivers, its medieval old town perched on a rocky plateau. The city is well connected by train, road, and air — Ljubljana Joze Pucnik Airport is just a short drive away.

I took the train from Ljubljana through the valley to Kranj, surrounded by the Julian Alps under a clear, warm sky. The 35-minute journey was smooth and scenic. Finding the hostel wasn’t difficult, though I did manage to walk past it by about thirty metres. After a small mix-up at check-in, everything was quickly sorted. The hostel had a welcoming feel, and I settled in with a cold beer and spent part of the afternoon blogging — trying to catch up, as usual.

A Slow Start and a Walk to the Main Square

That night, I had the room to myself — a rare luxury. Sleep didn’t come easily, though, perhaps due to having run out of my regular medication back in Denmark. I’ve since tried magnesium tablets from a Ljubljana pharmacy, but the jury’s still out on whether they help.

After a late start, I headed out around 11 a.m. to a local bakery recommended by my hosts. Ordering in Slovenia can be a small gamble — there’s no such thing as a mince and cheese pie like in New Zealand! Still, my cheesy pastry was satisfying.

The main square was lively, with market stalls selling local produce. A fountain splashed quietly nearby beside an unnamed statue. I paused a few minutes to take it all in before moving toward the tall bell tower that dominates the old town skyline.

The Bell Tower of St. Cantianus

The late Gothic Church of St. Cantianus, dating from the 14th century, is Kranj’s most iconic structure. Its 60-metre-high bell tower rises above the rooftops, visible from every corner of the city. Entry to the tower is €4, paid at the nearby information centre.

The climb up its 163 steps was steeper and narrower than expected, with sections lacking handrails — definitely not for the faint-hearted. Two bell platforms break the ascent: one houses three large bells, and another, higher up, features ten smaller bronze bells that ring melodiously fifteen times daily.

At the top, four doors lead to viewing platforms facing each direction. From here, the view stretches across the Kokra Canyon, the red rooftops of Kranj, and all three mountain ranges of the Slovenian Alps — a breathtaking panorama that rewards every step.

The Preseren Monument

Just around the corner stands the Preseren Monument, in front of the Preseren Theatre. Created in 1952 by sculptors Francisek Smerdu and Peter Loboda, it honours Slovenia’s most celebrated poet, France Preseren.

The statue captures him mid-stride, his coat whipped by the wind — a touch that gives life to the otherwise expressionless face. The granite pedestal and flowing lines of the sculpture make it both dignified and dramatic, commanding attention in the square.

The Churches of Kranj – All Closed Today

From the top of the tower, I had spotted several church spires and decided to explore them, though, as luck would have it, they were all closed.

The Church of Saint Mary of the Rosary, dating from the early 16th century, once served the town’s Protestant community. It later became surrounded by a small cemetery where poorer citizens were buried, while noble families from nearby Khislstein Castle were entombed in its crypt.

Next door, the Plecnik Arcades and Fountain mark the grand entrance to the old town, designed by Slovenia’s famous architect Jože Plečnik. His style is unmistakable — a blend of classical formality and inventive symbolism, complete with a bronze rooster perched atop a tiered fountain.

Further south stands the Church of St. Fabian, St. Sebastian, and St. Roch, built in 1478 after the citizens vowed to honour these saints if spared from the plague. It’s the smallest of Kranj’s three old-town churches, perched high on a bluff overlooking the rivers. Sadly, this one, too, was locked when I arrived.

The Pungert Tower

At the very edge of Kranj’s old town stands the Pungert Tower, the only fully preserved 16th-century defensive tower in the city. Its name derives from the German Baumgarten — meaning “orchard” — that once surrounded the area. Over the centuries, it’s served as a residence and a prison, even holding the artist Leopold Layer, later famous for his religious paintings, after he was caught forging currency.

Today, the tower has a lighter spirit. It houses a children’s play centre and often hosts creative workshops. A cosy café next door transforms into a live music venue during the Jazz Kamp Kranj Festival in August. Nearby, a glass-bottomed viewing platform juts out over the Kokra Canyon — a thrilling spot to test your nerves and admire the gorge below.

Khislstein Castle and the Layer House

My next stop was Khislstein Castle, a 13th-century fortress that once guarded the river crossing. Though steeped in history, the site was somewhat disappointing visually — much of it hidden under thick greenery. Only one restored section remains open to the public as part of the Upper Carniola Museum, hinting at the castle’s former grandeur.

The nearby Layer House more than made up for it. Once home to painter Leopold Layer, known for the Mary Help of Christians icon, it’s now a vibrant cultural hub and artist gathering space. I stopped there mid-afternoon for a cold beer in the courtyard, overlooking the Sava River and the old town perched above.

From this peaceful spot, 138 stone steps descend to the riverbank below. I sat for a while in the sunshine, content to watch the light shimmer across the water. I’ll likely attempt the Three Castles Walk in the coming days — a two-hour trail around Kranj’s surrounding countryside, weather permitting.

Final Thoughts

Even with the churches closed, Kranj’s charm came through in its scenery, history, and easy pace. The medieval streets, old fortifications, and riverside walks make it a pleasant and relaxing base to explore the region.

For now, I’ve decided to stay put for a few more days — using Kranj as my hub for day trips by train or bus. Sometimes the best travel moments come when you stop rushing and let a place unfold at its own rhythm.

Andrew

InspireSeniorsTravel.com