Day 5: Turkish Quarter Kyrenia Gate

Weather Update: Sunny. High 18c

Elevation Above Sera Level: 220 Metres

I have a few photos to take you through the Turkish-controlled Quarter Lefkosa through to the Ledra border crossing back into Greek-controlled Cyprus.

Today, I ventured to the last gate in Nicosia—located in the Turkish-controlled area—and uncovered layers of history and culture along the way. My walk led me near the United Nations compound and a military base, with Google Maps guiding me along an unexpected route.

A Legacy of Peacekeeping

Cyprus has long been at the stage of peacekeeping efforts. Since 1964, Canadian forces have played a significant role, with a large contingent serving until 1993 and a smaller presence remaining today to support UN missions. The Green Line (Greek: Πράσινη Γραμμή; Turkish: Yeşil Hat) stretches 180 kilometres (112 miles) across the island, marking the buffer zone that separates communities—a reminder of the island’s divided history. Photography is not permitted in this sensitive area, even though it lies in plain sight.

Walking Along Ancient Walls

I strolled for about 2–3 kilometres alongside the ancient Venetian walls that encircle the old city of Lefkosa. Originally constructed during the Lusignan period, these walls were thinner and longer than those later built by the Venetians to protect the inhabitants from Ottoman conquest. Historically, the fortifications included three gates and eleven bastions.

Crossing Through the Check Point

At the checkpoint, a simple visual passport inspection by border guards allowed me to continue. I reached the Kyrenia Gate—also known as Girne—and stepped into the Turkish-occupied part of the city. Today, this gate serves as an information centre for tourists, guiding visitors toward Ledra Street and the Greek-controlled territory. Built-in 1562 and originally named Porta Del Proveditore after the Venetian engineer Francesco Barbaro, the gate was enhanced with a domed watchtower in 1821. During the British colonial period in 1931, sections of the wall were removed to facilitate traffic.

Breakfast at the Venetian Column

After the gate, I made my way to the Venetian Column, where I enjoyed a delicious chicken doner for 180 Turkish Lira (about NZD 8.83). The column has a fascinating history—it was originally located at Atatuk Square (locally known as Sarayonu) and moved to Nicosia in 1489 as a tribute to the Venetians. Over time, it was toppled by the Ottomans in 1570 and later restored by the British in 1915.

Exploring Colonial and Ottoman Influences

Across the square, I admired the British Colonial Law Courts, built in 1905 from cut yellow sandstone. A nearby memorial honours Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953. I also visited the Kumarcilar Khan (or Himarcilar Khan), built in the early 18th century by Fuat Tuccabasi. Although only 44 of the original 56 rooms remain, the building tells tales of its past use—from bedrooms and storage areas to animal shelters. Just across the street, the Buyuk (Great) Khan, constructed in 1576, stands as the largest in Cyprus. This two-story building originally featured 68 rooms and 10 shops, with the lower level serving as shops, storage, and stables, and the upper level as living quarters. Its central Sadirvan—a water tank and fountain on columns—once provided both utility and a quiet place for prayer.

The Heritage of Selimiye Mosque

A short distance away, the Selimiye Mosque (formerly St. Sophia Cathedral) now undergoing extensive repair work and is closed to the public. Built between 1208 and 1326 in a Gothic style, this architectural gem once hosted the coronation of Lusignan kings. The Ottomans later added two minarets, transforming it into a mosque. Beneath its floors lie the remains of several kings and nobles, carefully preserved and covered by mats per local customs.

The Bustling Municipal Market

En route to the Municipal Market (Bandabuyla), I wandered through side streets lined with shops, stalls, and eateries. On a sunny Friday, the market buzzed with tourists and locals alike. Originally an open bazaar during the Ottoman era, the market was enclosed in stone in 1881. It expanded further in 1931 with a retail section and again in 1940 with a wholesale market, evolving into a vibrant hub of retail shops, cafes, and fresh produce stalls.

A Quick Stop at Lokmaci Crossing

Before the day ended, I reached the Lokmaci Crossing, which leads back to Ledra Street. The process was simple: foreigners showed their passports, while Turkish citizens used an identity card. Although I was uncertain about photography rules here, I managed to capture a few shots of the border crossing.

Wrapping Up the Morning

After crossing, I paused at a local spot called Cheers for a beer, to have popcorn catching up with a football match. As a light rain fell, I returned to my hostel, where I heated some egg-fried rice and chatted with fellow travellers—a UK-based IT repair specialist and a Spanish stock market trader funding his travels. In total, I walked 8.14 kilometres, weaving through Nicosia’s historic streets and soaking in its rich cultural tapestry.

Thoughts Today

Every step of today’s journey revealed the intricate layers of history that make Nicosia a truly unique city—a blend of past conflicts, cultural transformations, and modern-day vibrancy waiting to be explored.