Day 106: Scenic Views and Divided Histories

Weather Update: ☀️ Sunny with cloudy periods. High: 16°C

Elevation Above Sea Level: 220 Metres

A Slow Morning and a City View

This morning was slow and relaxed, the perfect chance to catch up on my blog. By lunchtime, I was ready to explore, and my first stop was the Shacolas Tower Museum and Observatory. The 11th floor offered an incredible panoramic view stretching over the city and into the distant mountains.

Calling it a "museum" felt like an overstatement. It was more of an information centre, with details about the sights in every direction and a TV running a documentary about Nicosia’s past. The entry fee was reasonable, just 2.50 Euros (NZD 4.64).

One thing that immediately caught my eye was the massive Turkish flag painted onto the mountains, a striking reminder of the island’s division, one that has remained unresolved since the Turkish invasion of Cyprus on July 20, 1974.

The Deeply Layered History of Cyprus

Cyprus has always been a land shaped by history and politics, its story intertwined with cultural clashes and shifting rulers. The island is home to two main communities: Turkish Cypriots, mostly Muslim, and Greek Cypriots, who follow the Greek Orthodox faith. While Cyprus lies 40 miles from Turkey, it is much farther from Greece—250 miles from Rhodes and 460 miles from Athens.

For centuries, Cyprus was a battleground, falling under the rule of various empires—the Assyrians, Egyptians, Persians, Romans, Arabs, Crusaders, and Ottoman Turks (1571-1878) all left their mark. Despite its Greek cultural influences, Cyprus has never actually been a Greek island. Its identity is a unique blend of cultures, architecture, and unresolved political tensions that still shape daily life today.

Crossing the Border at Ledra Street

Leaving the tower behind, I wandered through the lively pedestrian zone of Ledra Street, eventually reaching the Lokmaci Gate, the border crossing between Greek-controlled south Nicosia and the Turkish-controlled north, I plan to be in the Turkish sector tomorrow.

At Cheers Bar, a familiar voice called out my name. It was Alex, who recognized me with my red hat. Over drinks, he explained his travel dilemma—he had entered Cyprus through the Turkish-controlled north and wasn’t sure if he could fly out from the Greek side. Luckily, recent regulations allow travellers to depart from any airport, unlike before, when you had to leave the same way you entered.

Before heading back, I sent off my postcards. A small task, but a satisfying one to tick off the list.

Back at the Hostel: New Faces and Late-Night Conversations

Back at the hostel, I had a simple but tasty dinner—prawn noodles, saving the egg-fried rice for tomorrow. The evening turned into a night of deep conversations and new connections. Alex from Spain, a buyer in the gold and silver trade, had plenty of stories to share. Pedro from Brazil and I had an effortless conversation, the kind where different backgrounds don’t seem to matter. Then there was Alex from South Korea, who had spent the day at the Turkish Embassy dealing with visa paperwork. He studies the Bible, and our discussion drifted into faith, life, and the things that weigh on us.

Another day wrapped up in this incredible journey.

What’s Next: The Kyrenia Gate Awaits

Tomorrow, I plan to visit the Kyrenia Gate in Turkish-occupied Nicosia, the last of the city's historic gates left for me to see.

This adventure is a mix of history, exploration, and unexpected friendships. Hope you’re enjoying the ride with me! 🌍✈️