Day 4 Kotor Castle

Weather Update: Sunny High 16c

Elevation above Sea Level: 16 Metres

Day 4: Conquering Kotor Castle

The Challenge Ahead

After a good night’s sleep, I was ready to take on the formidable climb to Kotor Castle—280 meters up with 1,350 steps, nearly a vertical ascent along the mountainside. The weather was perfect: clear skies, bright sunshine, and breathtaking views. The climb offers two routes: a steep staircase built into the ancient walls or a narrow cobbled path running alongside it. I alternated between the two—opting for the flat stretches of road where possible and switching to the stairs when the ground became loose and uneven.

As I ascended, I couldn’t help but wonder how this fortress was ever conquered. Looking at its sheer height and the challenging terrain surrounding it, the strategic advantage of its position became clear.

A Fortress Steeped in History

The fortifications of Kotor, historically known as Cattaro, form an integrated defensive system protecting the medieval town. Over the centuries, these ramparts, towers, citadels, gates, and bastions have withstood sieges and natural disasters alike. The fortress incorporates architectural influences from the Illyrians, the Byzantine Empire, the Venetians, and the Austrians.

The first fortifications were established by the Illyrians, with Byzantine Emperor Justinian I reconstructing the stronghold in the 6th century. Over time, Kotor gained brief independence, though its defences remained in flux. In 1420, the Republic of Cattaro fell under Venetian rule, shaping the fortifications into their present form. The fortress endured two major Ottoman sieges (1538–1571 and 1657–1699) and later came under attack from the British Navy in 1814, led by Captain William Hoste. Using an unconventional strategy, Hoste’s crew hauled cannons to higher ground, bombarding the fortress from above until the French garrison surrendered after a ten-day siege.

World War I saw the Austrians abandon Kotor, and during World War II, Axis forces occupied the town until its liberation on November 21, 1944—a date still commemorated at the Sea Gate. Severe earthquakes in 1563, 1667, and most recently in 1979 left the castle in ruins. Despite its battered state, the climb to the top remains well worth the effort, offering not only incredible views but also a deep appreciation for the resilience of this fortress through history.

A Rewarding Climb

Reaching the summit left me with some aches and pains, but the journey was far less daunting than I had anticipated. As an older traveller, I had braced myself for a tough challenge, yet the steady pace and rewarding scenery made it surprisingly manageable.

With my plans constantly evolving, I’ve decided to reroute my journey. Instead of heading to Podgorica for the train to Belgrade, I will travel to Bar. The day train from Podgorica doesn’t begin until June with the start of tourist season, but I can board it in Bar, enjoying the scenic route through Montenegro. From there, I’ll transfer to Bijelo Polje, stay overnight, and then take the night train to Belgrade. Of course, plans can always change!

That’s it for today—another adventure, another story. Stay tuned for more updates from my travels.

Andrew