Day 310–314: From Gothenburg to Sæby – Fish, Ships, and Unexpected Adventures
Weather Update: Sun with occasional showers. High 18°C.
Leaving Gothenburg
Day 310: Last Day in Sweden
I had initially planned to linger in Gothenburg a few more days, enjoying a nearly empty hostel. But when they insisted on charging premium weekend rates despite the emptiness, I decided to move on. One paying guest is better than an empty bed. Their loss, my gain.
Feskekôrka – The “Fish Church”
Breakfast was three cups of coffee before heading out around noon to Feskekôrka. Despite its name, it isn’t a church—it just looks like one from the outside, with pointed arches and soaring windows. Historically, it was the heart of Gothenburg’s fish trade. Today, however, tourism and commercialisation have taken over. The fresh fish stalls are tucked into two cabinets, while restaurants and other food outlets occupy the majority of the hall.
I imagine the market bustling at its peak, the air rich with fresh catch and haggling voices. But at 12:30, it felt more like a glossy food court for tourists than a historic seafood hub. Still, walking through a space built in 1874 and designed to evoke a church-like atmosphere reminded me of Gothenburg’s maritime heritage.
Svenska Kyrkan
Leaving Feskekôrka, I hopped on a scooter toward Kronhuset but was sidetracked by a church that caught my attention—Svenska kyrkan. Its stained-glass windows glowed in the light, and all around the outer walls stood figures of the apostles. I didn’t count them, but there should have been eleven. Some might argue for twelve, but Judas Iscariot, having betrayed Jesus, is rarely honoured alongside the others.
This church belongs to the Church of Sweden, the country’s Evangelical Lutheran denomination. With over five million members, it’s not only the largest faith community in Sweden but also the biggest Lutheran church in Europe. Born out of Gustav Vasa’s Reformation in the 1500s, the Church of Sweden broke from Rome and became state-run. Today, it remains central to Swedish life, a reminder of the country’s shift from Catholic roots to its own national faith.
Kronhuset & The Bourse
From there, I continued to my original destination, Kronhuset (Crown House), originally a granary and arsenal to protect the city during sieges. Its 17th-century bricks still hold stories of past conflicts. A little lost thanks to Google Maps, I wandered past closed buildings and eventually found myself at The Bourse in Gustaf Adolf Square.
The Bourse is often mistranslated as “The Stock Exchange,” but it was actually a commercial exchange connecting Gothenburg’s merchants to Europe. A few exterior photos later, I was back on the scooter, heading to the port.
Barken Viking – A Maritime Giant
At the port, I admired the Barken Viking, a four-masted steel barque built in 1906 in Copenhagen. Once a sail training ship for the Danish merchant fleet, it’s now a hotel and restaurant. Standing by the dock, its size and history are impossible to ignore.
It had been a day of walking, scooters, and sightseeing with a tinge of disappointment. I ended the evening at a local sports bar, catching up on football, checking emails, and hoping Laurits would finally reply about meeting up.
Day 312: Ferry to Denmark
The next morning, I woke at 7:15 and made my way to the port for the ferry to Frederikshavn, Denmark. The Stena Line Carisma Express, a ten-deck vessel, looked imposing but showed its age. The Baltic stretched grey and smeary beyond the windows. The ferry was almost empty, so reserved seating and extra assurances were unnecessary.
The onboard quiz provided a fun distraction. I scored 7 points on my own, outpacing other groups, but the winner had 11 points; there were four of them, and I laughed at my unexpected triumph, not winning but enjoying the moment.
Day 312: Arrival in Frederikshavn & Travel to Sæby
Docking around 1 PM, stepping off the ferry was almost like walking into another country with no passport control. I quickly found a place for Wi-Fi—though they had none—and piggybacked the manager’s phone to get online. Plans were made: a bus to Sæby, a small coastal town 12 km away, where I’d be staying for the next three nights.
Frederikshavn itself is steeped in history, with archaeological finds from the Stone Age through the Viking Age. Today, it’s a bustling ferry port, fishing hub, and home to technical schools and a naval base.
Sæby – Old Town Charm
Arriving in Sæby, things didn’t go smoothly. The property I booked had a coded door, and without instructions from the owner, I was locked out. The local bar, The Hillier, became my lifeline. Generous locals guided me through, and despite a frustrating start, I eventually got into the apartment. The evening passed with laughter and stories over drinks, a reminder of how helpful strangers can be.
The town itself is a gem. Sæby’s streets are lined with houses dating back to the 16th century. I wandered through the town, snapping pictures of fascinating structures, and explored Sæby Church (Skt. Mariæ Kirke), originally a Carmelite monastery from the 12th century with stunning frescoes.
Sæby has around 8,000 residents, but swells in summer with tourists drawn to its beaches and yachting. The local museum, Sæby Museum, occupies a 17th-century half-timbered building, giving a window into life in the region over centuries. Nearby, the Renaissance manor house Sæbygaard holds silver, porcelain, damask, and portraits of nobles—a layered reminder of the town’s history.
Reflections Day 312 - 314
These days were a mix of highs and lows, with the buildings being closed: from the disappointment of commercialised attractions in Gothenburg to the warmth and humour of locals in Sæby. Travel isn’t always about ticking off landmarks—it’s the detours, unexpected friendships, and quirky mishaps that make the journey memorable.