Day 309/310: Leaving Stockholm → Gothenburg

Weather Update: Early rain with a cold wind leading to sunny intervals. High 17°C

Elevation: 28 metres

Day 309: Leaving Stockholm

The train from Stockholm to Gothenburg travels at 200 km/h and takes about 4.5 hours. The trip wasn’t very eventful; the countryside was fairly bland, leaving me to focus on blogging and adding photos, ready for evening publishing.

Leaving the Central Railway, I spotted a scooter and followed the river for a while before heading inland toward my hostel. Access with codes and passes was straightforward, but having no one to greet you and show you around always leaves me a bit flat — you have to find your room, locate the toilets and showers, and work out the kitchen and common areas on your own. I settled in with minimal fuss and got on with finishing the blog from the train.

Later in the evening, I watched the football before heading to bed around 11:00 pm. During the night, one guest turned the light on, which disturbed me, so in a few words I told them to switch it off — some guests are selfish and oblivious to other travellers, which does get under my skin.

Day 310: Exploring Gothenburg

Skansen Kronan

Breakfast was just two cups of coffee while I published the last blog from Stockholm. Overnight, it had rained, and it was still raining when I got up, but by 10:30 am, it began to clear. I posted postcards to my grandchildren and headed toward Skansen Kronan.

The walk up to the fortress is short but steep, leaving you puffing for air by the top. Upon arrival, it was closed; later, I learned it is now privately owned and used as a venue for conferences and private parties.

Skansen Kronan, or “The Crown Sconce,” is a redoubt on the hill Risåsberget in the Haga district of Gothenburg. The fortress and its twin, Skansen Lejonet, were built to protect the city against possible Danish attack, similar in purpose to the sea fort of New Älvsborg. Work began in 1687, and the fort was officially commissioned in 1698, equipped with 23 guns, though the roof was not completed until 1700. Its walls are 4–5 metres thick, made of granite, gneiss, and diabase. Skansen Kronan was never attacked, and the cannons were never fired in anger. Both forts were designed by Erik Dahlbergh, with the one on Risåsberget named Skansen Kronan and the one on Gullberg named Skansen Lejonet.

Haga District

Leaving the fortress, it’s a short walk downhill to the Haga district. The cobblestone streets invite a relaxing stroll. Haga is renowned for its picturesque wooden houses, 19th-century atmosphere, and cafés. Originally a working-class suburb with a rather bad reputation, it gradually became a popular destination for tourists and locals.

A major renovation in the 1980s saw houses either renovated or replaced with post-modernistic replicas. The streets are steeped in history; the area has been a shopping and cultural hub since the mid-1600s. Candlelit cafés, pubs with terraced courtyards, and bohemian vibes surround Järntorget square and adjoining Långgatorna streets. Vegan bistros and bakeries known for cinnamon buns dot the area, and quaint stores sell books, crafts, and knitwear.

Haga was also the setting for the television sitcom Albert & Herbert (1974–1982), about two scrap-dealers, a spin-off of the BBC’s Steptoe and Son from the 1960s. If you’ve never watched it, you can still download it online, and in its day, it was very funny.

Haga Church

Crossing the road brings you to Haga Church. Inside, the stained-glass windows circle the sanctuary, and a large organ sits above the main entrance. I spent time inside, connecting quietly with God.

The church belongs to the Gothenburg Haga Parish within the Diocese of Gothenburg. It opened on Advent Sunday, 27 November 1859. Construction began in 1856, and architect Adolf W. Edelsvärd designed both the church and the pulpit. The bell tower is about 50 metres high, and the first organ was installed in 1861 for 20,000 Swedish crowns.

Gothenburg Cathedral

A ten-minute walk across the river brings you to Gothenburg Cathedral. Unlike Haga Church, it is very basic — much like many Lutheran churches across Europe. The church houses two organs, one small and a larger one above the entrance. The sanctuary has gilded angels and a cross over a sun.

The pulpit is unusual: a bull’s head on one side, a lion on the other, and an angel in the middle, topped by an eagle. The pulpit eagle represents the Empire, the symbols represent the evangelist’s angels, draping (cloak), pine cones, and other ornaments covered with lustrous gold. The bull’s head is known as bucrania, a symbol of sacrifice. Bulls in many ancient cultures are associated with the underworld, celestial power, or protective symbolism. The motif can be seen as a protective element, warding off evil. I’ll leave you with your own interpretations.

Vasa Church

I took the scooter for part of the journey, hopping off near Vasa Church. My scooter allowed me to cover more ground, giving me about 30 minutes over 24 hours to explore before returning to the hostel. Inside, I was amazed by a painting nearly 10 metres tall, apparently done with wax crayon — stunning to see from underneath.

Vasa Church, founded in 1909, is located in Vasastaden, between Hvitfeldtska gymnasiet and Vasaparken. Built in Neo-Romanesque style from granite brought from nearby Bohuslän, it underwent major renovations in 1999–2000. Not much else is known about the church, and there was no one on site to provide further information.

Gothenburg Museum of Art & Götaplatsen Square

From Vasa Church, it’s a 5–10-minute walk to Götaplatsen Square, home to the Gothenburg Museum of Art. Inside, I only took a brief look; photos and pictures didn’t appeal to me, so I sat beside the statue of Poseidon by Carl Milles, inaugurated in 1931, at the top of Avenyn. The statue is surrounded by the Concert Hall, City Theatre, and Gothenburg Museum of Art. Nearby, I found a café for a beer and to charge my phone.

Skansen Lejonet

Later, I took the scooter for a 3 km trip to Skansen Lejonet, Kronan’s sister fortress. Things went off course — Google Maps led me to the other side of the railway tracks with no access. I asked at a local shop about a tunnel, then had to go via the central railway station, tram, and bus. Like Skansen Kronan, it was closed to the public, only open for special events.

Historically, it is one of two defensive redoubts built in the late 17th century by Erik Dahlbergh. Lejonet was completed two weeks after Kronan, with walls over seven metres thick. It was part of Gothenburg’s defense until 1822, then became a storage facility for gunpowder.

Evening

Late afternoon, I headed back to the hostel, stopping at a sports bar next to a supermarket. I later bought supplies for spaghetti bolognese with mozzarella. Two great conversations: one with bar staff, another with a local who joined my table. Dinner went down well, and I had enough for tomorrow night too.

Finishing today’s blog, I got ready for football at 9 pm and headed to bed at 11 pm. Overall, it was a good day. Soon I will be travelling to Ålborg, Denmark, to meet Laurits, who promises to show me a good time.

— Andrew

(inspireseniorstravel.com)