Day 3: Sunshine, Stone Walls, and Bazaar Treasures
Weather Update: Dry with sunny intervals. High: 7°C
Elevation Above a Level: 240m (787 ft)
The skies were finally settling this morning. The air still carried a sharp chill from the mountains, but with no rain in sight, I set out early. Breakfast was at the mall—though calling it just breakfast doesn’t quite do it justice. For 450 Macedonian Denars (around NZD $14.46), I got a generous portion that covered two meals.
Postcards, Shoutouts, and Stone Walls
After fueling up, I headed toward Macedonia Square to send postcards to my grandchildren—and a special one to my hairdresser.
Shout out to Hair By Kim, 2 Glenn Terrace, Otumoetai!
(And hey, if you mention my name, you might just get a discount.)
From there, I crossed the Stone Bridge (see Day 2) toward the Skopje Fortress.
Skopje Fortress: Imposing Walls, Fading Glory
The Skopje Fortress looks mighty from the outside. Its outer walls promise a grand experience… but inside, it’s a different story. Overgrown grass, blocked access, and decaying entry points make it feel neglected—forgotten, even.
The bastions still offer impressive views of the mountains and cityscape, and the lower walls have been integrated into the newer city below. But the drawbridge is in visible decay—rotten timbers and crumbling supports—symbolic, perhaps, of how the past is being left behind.
It’s disappointing. With such a rich history, this landmark deserves preservation. It should offer visitors a glimpse into Skopje’s layered past, not leave them wondering why it’s been abandoned.
A Fortress with Centuries of Stories
The fortress dates back to the 6th century AD, on land inhabited since the Neolithic and Bronze Ages (around 4000 BC). Built with yellow limestone and fragments from the destroyed Roman city of Skupi, it rose during the rule of Justinian I.
The site has seen the rise and fall of empires—Byzantine, Bulgarian, Serbian—and crowned Stefan Dušan as Emperor in 1346, when he moved the Serbian capital to Skopje.
Yet today, little remains to reflect its historical weight.
Mustafa Pasha Mosque: A Glimpse Through Time
From the fortress, I walked to the Mustafa Pasha Mosque. Unfortunately, it was closed until 1 PM and I arrived at 11:30. Lately, it seems many mosques are unexpectedly closed during the day.
Still, the structure is stunning—sitting peacefully on a plateau above the bazaar. Built in 1492 by Çoban Mustafa Pasha (who later became vizier to Sultan Selim I), the mosque remains largely untouched by time. His daughter, Umi, is buried in the türbe next to the mosque.
Old Bazaar: Gold Streets and Nutty Beer
Next stop: the Old Town Bazaar, a labyrinth of culture, commerce, and contrast.
I sampled a dark local beer, rich with a nutty malt flavor—possibly the best I’ve had on this trip so far. Wandering through the bazaar brought back memories of others I’ve visited across the Balkans. But this one had a twist: gold.
Shop after shop lined the main street, each showcasing gold and jewelry, almost glowing in the daylight. The side streets offered more variety—clothing, crafts, food—but gold was clearly the star of the show.
Dating back to the 12th century, the Old Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest in the Balkans. Today, it still pulses with life—mosques, türbes, two churches, a clocktower, and museums form a patchwork of culture and history.
Final Thoughts: Frustration Meets Fascination
It was an indifferent day—the fortress left me underwhelmed, but the Old Bazaar made up for it. Its vibrant streets and cultural richness captivated my attention and reminded me why I love exploring places like this.
Now back at the hostel, catching up on blogs, editing photos, and prepping a review. Tomorrow’s another chance for something unexpected.
I’ll leave you with this thought:
“There are three ways to ultimate success:
The first way is to be kind.
The second way is to be kind.
The third way is to be kind.”
Andrew