Day 2: Cold and windy

Weather Update: Rain, Cold Windy High 6c

Elevation Above Sea Level; 240 Metres (787 ft)

Day 2: Blue Skies and Cold Winds in Skopje

I was up early—6:15 AM. Outside, blue skies stretched overhead with the sun shining brightly. “This is going to be a good day,” I thought. But by 7:30, my optimism was washed away with rain and a cold wind rolling off the mountains. A glance at the forecast confirmed it was likely here to stay.

A Cold Morning and a Warm Omelette

By 9:30 AM, I ventured out, aiming for the bakery across the road in the mall—but it didn’t open until 10. Waiting around in the chilly air didn’t appeal, so I wandered along the river until I found a cosy spot open for breakfast. A hot ham omelette hit the spot as I watched the weather, trying to guess its next move.

Around 11:30, the skies began to brighten a little. Not enough for hope, but enough to keep moving.

Statues, Squares, and Second-Hand Smoke

Skopje has a thing for statues—especially in Macedonia Square. From every angle, they loom, salute, or pose dramatically. Looking down, the square stretches roughly 100 meters long and 50 wide, paved with pristine white tiles. If my math is right, that’s about 3.75 million tiles—no small feat.

But even more noticeable than the statues? The smoke. Whether you’re indoors or out, second-hand smoke lingers. Sit at a restaurant with ten tables; nine will have someone smoking. Yours is the only one that doesn't—and only just.

Macedonia Square: Heart of the City

Located in the centre of Skopje, Macedonia Square is the largest in the country, spanning 18,500 square meters. It straddles the Vardar River and hosts everything from Christmas festivals to political rallies. It’s also where Macedonia declared independence from Yugoslavia—right here, where the first president, Kiro Gligorov, stood.

In the Footsteps of a Saint: Mother Teresa Memorial

From the square, I headed to the Mother Teresa Memorial House, just a short walk away. Born Mary Teresa Bojaxhiu in Skopje in 1910, she would go on to become a global symbol of compassion and service. She once said:

"By blood, I am Albanian. By citizenship, an Indian. By faith, I am a Catholic nun. As to my calling, I belong to the world. As to my heart, I belong entirely to the Heart of Jesus."

It’s hard not to feel moved standing near where her life began.

Crossing Time: The Stone Bridge and Old Bazaar

Crossing the Stone Bridge is like stepping into a different century. Built on Roman foundations and reconstructed under Sultan Mehmed II between 1451 and 1469, it connects modern Skopje to its ancient soul—the Old Bazaar.

The bridge spans 214 meters, with twelve elegant stone arches. Today, it’s the symbol of Skopje, even featured on the city’s coat of arms.

I only did a quick walk through the Old Town, but it immediately reminded me of places like Old Bar in Montenegro, or Kruja and Berat in Albania. A maze of winding streets, centuries-old shops, and echoes of a different pace of life. If the weather holds tomorrow, I’ll go back and explore more deeply.

Sadly, the Skopje Fortress, which towers above the area, has been left in disrepair. A city that seems so focused on creating a modern image has perhaps let its deeper history slip through the cracks.

A Simple Dinner and a Disappointing Derby

I wrapped up the day with a surprisingly decent Spaghetti Bolognese—better than expected—and returned to the hostel. There, I met an American traveller passing through for the night. We watched the Manchester football derby together, hoping for excitement, but ended up with a 0–0 draw. Oh well, it happens.

Final Thoughts: Cold Days and Warmer Hopes

It was an okay day, but the cold made it hard to get fully into the spirit of things. Spring is meant to bring warmth, but with the way weather patterns are changing, who knows anymore?

If tomorrow’s forecast improves, I’ll stay another night and finally give the fortress and the bazaar their due. Until then, I’ll leave you with this:

"When you give joy to other people, you get more joy in return. You should give a good thought to the happiness that you can give out."

– Andrew