Day 296: Leaving Riga – Tallinn Next Stop

Weather Update: Fog, Low Cloud, Sunny Intervals, High 22c

Elevation: 12 Metres or 39ft

Every journey has its highs and lows. Today was one of those days that began with energy and promise, dipped into frustration and disappointment, and finally closed with new connections and laughter.

A Final Night in Riga

After last night’s exciting Latvian Dancing that was full of loud clapping with beer and spirits flowing effortlessly around the cavern, the bar itself, situated in passages and tunnels in various directions, was full to the brim, underground in what were once was, storage cellars.

Early Departure Regrets

I set my alarm for 6 am and was up, dressed, and out the door, feeling some aches and pains from walking the cobblestones of Riga’s Old Town. Disappointed not to leave without breakfast—which was my choice, so I’d be in Tallinn by lunchtime—on reflection, I should have gotten a later bus, had breakfast, and arrived around three pm. It pained me to leave here, having arrived on Saturday at a place beaming with excitement. I really did not want to leave the hostel and move on because it was a place that would stay in my heart for a long time.

On the Road to Estonia

The trip north had us driving through some nice countryside with wooden houses dotting the landscape through light fog that slowed driving to safer speeds with limited vision. It never ceases to amaze me, fuel prices: Poland €1.38 (NZD 2.74), Latvia €1.58 (NZD 3.14), Estonia €1.49 (NZD 2.96).

The mist soon lifted, replaced by low-level grey clouds that gave everything a gloomy, wintry feel. Talking with a local, I was told summer ends at the end of September, but it already felt more like winter than summer.

I’ve often said on this journey how rubbish is scattered across landscapes in some countries. Since leaving Sarajevo, though, the roads and highways have been almost litter-free, unlike the lower Balkans, where it piles up everywhere.

Arrival Confusion in Tallinn

The bus arrived on time, but there was confusion over whether this was the bus station. Kristin from Norway, who lives in the Arctic Circle, checked her phone, which suggested another 25 minutes to go. At the last moment, I checked mine, and it showed we had indeed arrived. I annoyed the driver because he was ready to leave, and I wanted to get off. Kristin almost got off, too, but in the end stayed on—I think she got it wrong.

From the bus station, it was a 2.3 km or 34-minute walk to the hostel. The start of the walk was unremarkable, just modern architecture, but nearer the Old Town, the scenery began to change.

First Impressions and Hostel Troubles

Closer to the hostel, I stopped for a cold beer as I couldn’t check in until 3 o’clock. Things quickly went downhill. The hostel was just a door on the street with no signage; after banging for five minutes, someone I knew from Riga finally answered. Inside, I was disappointed—no Wi-Fi, no atmosphere. I decided this wasn’t the place for me, called the number, and cancelled my booking. Hopefully, it won’t cost me too much.

I booked one night at the Imaginary Hostel just around the corner for €15. I couldn’t get three nights because Saturday was fully booked. I booked the Zinc Hostel for 57 Euro - 113 NZD through Booking.com, and when I went back to it shortly afterwards, Booking.com showed a warning saying it wasn’t taking reservations at the moment for this property. Reading past reviews made me feel uneasy—so my first day in Tallinn didn’t exactly go to plan.

Finding My Feet

I finished my latest blog, complete with photos, encouraged by some wonderful feedback from young people who said my journey had inspired them. Travel is not just for the young—it’s a community for all ages. I’ve felt blessed by these conversations and stories.

Settling into the Imaginary Hostel, I met Yichen from Sydney, Australia, who is volunteering here before heading to Latvia and Poland. She organised a trivia night, and I was happy to join. So no photos with this blog, but get your reading glasses on because tomorrow will be a full day with plenty of sightseeing.

A Day of Ups and Downs

It had been an interesting day—one that started well, fell apart in the middle, and finished with warmth and companionship.


✨ Tomorrow I’ll step out to discover Tallinn properly, wandering its medieval streets and seeing what stories unfold in this northern capital.