Day 294/295: Wandering Riga’s Churches and Castles
Day 294: A Day of Detours
I started the morning with a delightful breakfast — just the energy I needed to traipse around the city again. Yesterday, Google Maps had trouble working out where I was, sending me to the wrong places three times. Still, I am determined to try again tomorrow.
Before setting out, I bought stamps for postcards to send to my grandchildren. At €4.77 each they weren’t cheap, and when I stuck one down, it promptly dropped off. Hopefully, the post office will replace it.
I planned to visit St. George’s Church, but when I followed Maps, I ended up at Our Lady of Sorrows Church instead.
Our Lady of Sorrows Church
Standing at 5 Pils Street, this Roman Catholic church was first built in 1785 and later rebuilt in 1860. It was the first stone Catholic church constructed in Riga after the Reformation, symbolising the endurance of the Catholic faith in the city. Supported by Holy Roman Emperor Joseph II, its Neo-Romanesque façade and Neo-Renaissance baptistery give it a distinctive look.
Still determined to find St. George’s, I set off again. After a 30-minute walk, I realised I’d been led in a circle — right back to Dome Square where I had started. Very strange!
Instead, I made my way to St. John’s Church. At the entrance, a man abruptly asked for a donation. I explained that I haven’t carried cash for five months, avoiding ATM fees by using my Wise card instead. That seemed to satisfy him, and I was allowed to enter. Inside, the atmosphere was calm and a gentle organ played in the background.
St. John’s Church
St. John’s was first mentioned in 1297 and took its current form around 1500, with its stepped Gothic gable and small tower. Originally belonging to the Dominican Order, it became a Lutheran church in 1582. One of the more curious legends tells of two Dominican monks who wished to be canonised and were walled up alive inside. Riga’s townspeople fed them through a small opening in the wall until they died, though they were never granted sainthood.
Not long after, I wandered through a narrow alleyway where I found an old archway and part of the city wall with a rampart still standing above a restaurant. With no plaque to explain its history, I moved on and eventually found myself back at the Kiwi Bar.
That evening back at the hostel, the usual rhythm of traveller life played out. People from different corners of the world gathered around the common room table, swapping stories over tea, beer, and late snacks. I listened to tales from Scandinavia, shared a few of my own from my travels, and picked up tips for Tallinn from a couple who had just arrived from Estonia. The hours slipped by until I realised it was nearly 11 p.m. A comfortable bed and the gentle hum of hostel life ended the day perfectly.
Day 295: Finally Finding St. George’s
The weather forecast suggested rain, but when I stepped outside, the skies were clear and blue. After breakfast, I headed straight back into Old Town. My first stop was St. George’s Church — at last, I had found it.
St. George’s Church
It was not what I expected, but this is the oldest surviving stone building in Riga, built in the early 13th century by the Livonian Brothers of the Sword as a chapel for their castle. It survived a fire in 1215, later became a Franciscan church, and eventually fell out of use during the Reformation. For centuries, it was used as a warehouse and granary until 1989, when it was transformed into the Latvian Museum of Decorative Arts and Design. Standing in front of it, I could see its past as a church written clearly in the stones, even though its purpose has changed.
From there, I walked towards Riga Castle, passing again through Dome Square. Navigation in Old Town is casual — most of the main sites sit only minutes apart.
When I reached the castle, I was just in time to see the guards of the Presidential Palace performing their rifle drill. I stepped in closer to take a photo and was promptly told off, but I managed to get my shot. Like the Freedom Monument, the guards are changed daily every hour; on a hot day, the heavy uniforms must be uncomfortable.
Riga Castle
Riga Castle’s foundation stone was laid in 1330. Over the centuries, it has been rebuilt, expanded, and adapted, first by the Swedes in the 17th century and later under Latvian independence. Since 1922, it has been the official residence of the President of Latvia. Today, it still serves as the president’s home and also houses several museums.
Bastion Park:
Later in the afternoon, I strolled through Bastion Hill Park, a quiet, romantic green space right in the centre of the city. I walked the narrow paths and stone bridges, where newlyweds still leave padlocks as a symbol of happiness. Swans and ducks moved calmly along the canal, and I paused to watch the water flow under the little bridges.
By the time I left, the forecast proved right and a light shower arrived. I returned to the hostel to post my next set of postcards.
Cinnamon Sally Hostel
The common room that evening was buzzing. A group of Turkish travellers had their jerseys on, gearing up to watch their country face Serbia in the European Basketball Championships. The hostel group was going to the Latvian Dancing at Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs, and I was heading out with them. The atmosphere was electric, and it reminded me how hostels aren’t just a bed; they’re small crossroads where lives briefly intersect.
Tomorrow morning I’ll catch the 7:10 a.m. Flixbus to Tallinn, Estonia, a journey of around four and a half hours. I’ve booked into Old Town Backpackers and hope it will be as good as this one. Riga itself has been a highlight, and this hostel is one of the best of my travels so far.
I hope you continue to follow me and enjoy my travels around the world, and I hope I can take you to places you can only dream of. I am travelling and I am dreaming of those exact places you are thinking of. Reach out to me if you can help me with a bed for the night if I'm in your country, because even though I do not get paid, every small gesture helps. I enjoy what I do.
Andrew inspireseniorstravel.com (a.matthews2463@gmail.com)