A Day in Wrocław — Battles, Beer, and Booking Ahead
Planning the Next Step
This morning I set out for Wrocław’s train station, determined to secure my onward ticket to Lithuania. My plan was simple: buy the ticket, then spend the weekend soaking in the city before departure. Reality, of course, had other ideas. The night train to Vilnius doesn’t leave until Monday at 11:56 p.m., arriving Tuesday at 5:26 p.m. — a long wait, but one that gives me time to explore more of Wrocław. The famous Racławice Panorama Painting quickly made it to the top of my “must-see” list, along with the Russian neon signs and a few museums over the weekend.
The Ticket Hunt
I arrived at the Panorama building around 12:15 p.m., only to find that the next available entry was for the two o’clock slot. The place was heaving — hundreds of people milling inside and out, tickets in hand, waiting for their turn. I decided not to queue but instead to book a ticket online for another day. With that settled, my stomach reminded me that it was lunchtime.
Lunch at Targowa Bar
Down by the river, I found Targowa Bar, a spot with a special connection to home. “Targowa” is actually a New Zealand hop variety, and the bar proudly imports it to craft a wide range of beers. I ordered beef cheeks braised in beer, served with new potatoes and a red cabbage slaw. The beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender, rich and deeply flavoured. At 66 złoty (around NZD 30.95 or €15.50), it was a meal worth every cent. I should have taken a photo to share, but honestly, I was far too eager, so I dug in.
Day 283: Largest Painting in the World
The Racławice Panorama
Entrance for a senior 37 Zloty or 17.34 NZD or 8.68 Euro
The highlight of my day came with the Racławice Panorama — one of the largest oil paintings in the world. Standing 15 meters high and 115 meters wide, the work is displayed inside a purpose-built rotunda. Commissioned for 100,000 guilders (but costing 115,000 in the end), the panorama was designed to immerse viewers in the Battle of Racławice, fought on April 4, 1794, during the Kościuszko Uprising against Russia.
Inside, you don’t simply look at a painting — you stand in it. The circular canvas places you on a hillside, surrounded by smoke, cannons, and shouting soldiers. It’s as if time has folded, and you are there, caught in the middle of the battle. The detail is astonishing: peasant fighters armed with scythes charging Russian lines, cannons being seized, Kościuszko himself rallying his men with cries of “For God and the Fatherland!”
The painting not only captures a pivotal moment in Polish history but also its spirit.
Battle of Britain.
The red caps worn by Kościuszko’s men and the war scythes later became enduring national symbols, even inspiring the emblem of the RAF’s 303 (Polish) Fighter Squadron in the Battle of Britain.
Video/Photos
Although it was too crowded for me to film, I did manage to take over 40 photos — hopefully enough to stitch together the sense of standing inside the battle. For those curious, here’s a YouTube video. https://youtu.be/CmENHrFEIgI, that gives a quieter view of what I experienced.
Reflections and Connections
I nearly skipped this attraction, but I’m so glad I didn’t. The Panorama was unforgettable — a vivid blend of history, art, and atmosphere that left me both humbled and inspired. Wrocław truly is a city that rewards explorers.
As I wrap up today, I’m already thinking ahead. Lithuania is next on the horizon, but I’d love hostel recommendations if you’ve been there — feel free to drop me an email at a.matthews2453@gmail.com
And Kris, my friend in Australia — I know this place will stir some great memories for you. Lauris, I’m excited to catch up when I reach Denmark, after our chance meeting in Gdańsk.
Travel, after all, isn’t just about places — it’s about the people we meet along the way.