Day 2: Journey to Kolasin – Thrills and Frustrations

Weather Update: Mainly Dry. Showers at Lunchtime, Clearing to Sunny Periods. High: 9°C

Elevation Above Sea Level: 1032 Metres (3386 ft)

An Early Start and a Scenic Train Ride

The day began at 4:45 a.m. as I prepared for my train journey from Podgorica to Kolasin, departing at 6:19 a.m. The weather looked promising, but spring in Montenegro is unpredictable, so I kept my expectations in check.

As the train climbed into the mountains, the scenery became breathtaking. Below us, the Mala Rijeka River carved through a deep canyon, and the train seemed to cling precariously to the mountainside. At times, looking out the window revealed a sheer drop. Capturing the camera views proved difficult—just as the perfect shot appeared, we’d enter a tunnel, or a rocky embankment would obstruct the scene. Trees lined the hillsides, adding to the challenge.

Then, in the distance, I spotted a towering viaduct spanning the valley. I never imagined we would cross it, assuming instead that our route would descend into the valley. But then, suddenly, we were on it.

Crossing the Mala Rijeka Viaduct

The Mala Rijeka Viaduct is an engineering marvel, constructed between 1969 and 1973. At 498.8 meters (1,636 ft) long and 200 meters (660 ft) high, it was once the highest railway bridge in the world. It held this record until 2001 when China surpassed it with the Beipan River Shuibai Railway Bridge.

As we crossed, I could feel my stomach drop. Looking straight down was dizzying. The bridge is used for bungee jumping, which seems insane—standing on it was frightening enough! When the train momentarily stopped mid-bridge, a shiver ran down my spine. Knowing that 36,000 cubic meters of concrete and 100,000 tonnes of steel supported us was somewhat reassuring, but I was still relieved when we reached solid ground.

A Warm Welcome to Kolasin

Arriving in Kolasin, I was pleasantly surprised when a kind stranger offered me a lift down the mountain into town. A short while later, I stopped at a small restaurant for breakfast—bacon and eggs for just 5 Euros. Energized, I continued my walk into town. The sky remained overcast, with a slight drizzle, but nothing too concerning.

Lost in the Rain

By 11 a.m., however, the drizzle had transformed into a downpour. My mission was to find some historic ruins, but two tourist maps I had contradicted each other, leading to endless confusion. I was on the right road, but when I reached a bridge over the river, the map suggested the road should continue straight. In reality, I faced a choice—left or right. With no obvious path forward, I made a 50-50 call and chose left.

That decision led me in a massive circle, completely missing the ruins. By the time I realized I was lost, I was drenched. Frustrated, I abandoned the search and headed back into town. The first restaurant I came across became my refuge. I ordered a plate of spaghetti Bolognese, which unfortunately was overly salty, but at that point, I didn’t care I just needed to sit somewhere warm and dry. Kalasin is a skiing destination and the town is not very photogenic hence the lack of photos. Better photos higher up but I'm only here for the day.

Killing Time Before the Night Train

Earlier in the day, I had left my bag at a bar for safekeeping, so I returned there to retrieve it and slowly sip drinks until my train to Belgrade at 10:30 p.m. I wasn’t sure how long I’d be welcome if I weren’t continuously ordering, but I figured I’d stay as long as possible. It rained at lunchtime now mid-afternoon the sun is shining, and spring is fickled weather.

Despite the rain, the frustrations, and the wrong turns, Kolasin had been an adventure. The thrill of the train ride, the sheer terror of the viaduct, and the unexpected generosity of a local had made it a day to remember. Now, Belgrade awaits—three nights in a city full of history, stories, and new discoveries.