Day 3: Belgrade

Weather Update: Cloudy with sunny intervals, high of 15°C

Elevation Above Sea Level: 119 meters

A Restful Night & Morning Plans

After a good night’s sleep—only waking once, thanks to the medication—I was ready to explore, despite the lively party scene outside my window. My plan for the day was to walk to the Temple of Saint Sava and the Nikola Tesla Museum. The route took me past several notable landmarks: the Serbian Museum, Parliament Building, National Post Office, Serbian Supreme Command Post, Student Protest Camp, and the Student Cultural Centre.

Breakfast, however, was disappointing. I hadn’t planned on complaining, but when the waiter asked if I enjoyed it, I simply said no. Surprisingly, I wasn’t charged for it. I can already hear some of my clubmates, especially Doug and Graham, laughing at this moment. Hello, boys, if you’re reading this!

Walking through this part of Belgrade brought back memories of my visits in the early 1970s when the country was still Yugoslavia. Back then, as soon as we landed, we were warned: no photographing government buildings, planes, or security areas. Violating this rule meant potential arrest and imprisonment. Today, things are vastly different. The influence of Imperialist Communism has been replaced by Western Capitalism, but the scars of the Balkan War are evident. The once warm and welcoming people now harbour resentment, particularly toward Bosnia.

The Temple of Saint Sava

The Temple of Saint Sava, standing 79 meters high, is a Serbian Orthodox church located on the Vračar plateau. It is the main cathedral of the Serbian Orthodox Church and one of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in the world. The church is dedicated to Saint Sava, the founder of the Serbian Orthodox Church. Built on the presumed location of his grave, his remains were burned there by Ottoman Grand Vizier Sinan Pasha in 1595.

Construction of the cathedral began in 1935, but work was halted during World War II when the Germans and later Tito's partisans repurposed it as a depot. The communist government blocked further construction for decades, but in 1984, permission was finally granted. Architect Branko Pešić adapted the plans to modern construction techniques, and in 1985, a liturgy was held at the unfinished temple with 100,000 people in attendance—a pivotal moment for the church in communist Yugoslavia.

Approaching the temple, it came into view like a stunning mirage. Its sheer presence was breathtaking. Stepping inside was even more remarkable. The frescoes were vivid and mesmerizing, capturing the eye from every angle. I couldn’t help but imagine the experience of standing there alone, free from the crowds, or even having our worship team perform in such a sacred space. Photographs simply cannot do justice to the awe-inspiring beauty of this place.

Change of Plans: The Protest Camp & Fortress

Deciding to skip the Tesla Museum, I made my way toward the Belgrade Fortress and Ruzica Church instead. The 2.5-kilometer walk took me past the demonstrators' camp. I took several photos from behind the barriers without any issues and continued walking. However, when I took another picture inside the park, I was immediately confronted by someone from the camp. "No photos," he told me.

I questioned why. There’s no law prohibiting photography here. It’s frustrating—they want media coverage for their cause but restrict photography. I wondered how they would react if I were a professional photojournalist. I already had the shots I wanted, so after speaking with the police about the incident, I left. But I plan to return.

Belgrade Fortress & Ruzica Church

The path to the fortress led me through Knez Mihailova Street, a vibrant, cosmopolitan area lined with shops, bars, and restaurants. Every 50 meters, a different street performer entertained passersby—violinists, clowns, dancers.

The fortress itself is enormous. A large section has been transformed into a war museum showcasing Soviet and Western military equipment, from tanks to anti-aircraft guns. One piece that caught my eye was a World War I-era howitzer—a real relic of history. Hopefully, my photos will tell a better story than words ever could.

On the far side of the fortress sits the Ruzica Church. The frescoes inside were stunning, though time has faded their once-vibrant colours. Despite this, they still captivate, drawing the eye across the small but beautiful space.

A Glimpse into History

Belgrade Fortress is the heart of the city's history, sitting at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers in the Stari Grad municipality. Originally declared a protected cultural monument after World War II, it was designated a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance in 1979. It remains the most visited tourist site in Belgrade, with Skadarlija (where I’m staying) ranking second.

Entry is free, and over two million people visit annually. The fortress dates back to the 3rd century BC and has changed hands many times. According to legend, Attila the Hun's grave lies beneath its walls. The history here is immense—too much to cover in just one entry, but enough to leave a lasting impression.

Today was filled with moments of wonder, frustration, nostalgia, and admiration. Belgrade has changed over the years, yet its layers of history remain ever-present. Tomorrow, the journey continues.