Day 173: Strolling Old Town Streets

Weather Update: Sunny. High 25c

Elevation: (43 ft)

I've not managed my time here in Split very well with the cruise ships restricting my exploration and leaving me struggling to catch up, so photos and other bits I will try to add over the next few days so you might need to back track and re read the posts if I can take some time to give myself the discipline needed.

Split: Navigating Ancient Streets and Finding Hidden Gems Through My Eyes

Hello fellow travellers and friends following along on my journey!

It feels like I was setting off from New Zealand only yesterday, backpack ready, spirit willing, and a mission in my heart. Now, here I am, standing on the edge of the Adriatic, in the vibrant city of Split, Croatia. For those of you who dream of seeing the world but perhaps think it's out of reach, I want to show you that it's possible. My journey, living out of a backpack and navigating new places at 71 (soon to be 72), is about proving that age is just a number when the desire to explore is strong. It's also about raising awareness for Arthritis in New Zealand, a cause close to my heart, reminding us all of the challenges many face daily and the importance of support and understanding.

Split, with its famous Diocletian's Palace, promised a blend of history, culture, and coastal beauty. I arrived ready to immerse myself, to walk the ancient paths, and to see this city through my own eyes, sharing every step with you.

Settling In and Local Discoveries

My first day in Split dawned bright and sunny, a perfect 25 degrees Celsius – just the kind of weather that lifts your spirits and makes you eager to explore. After a good night's sleep, catching up on rest after some fascinating late-night chats with fellow travellers at the hostel – Daan from Holland and Hubert from Poland, discussing everything from Faith to Darwinism – I was ready for coffee. A minor hiccup with the kettle socket was quickly sorted by my wonderful host, Mirjana, who also took the time to point me towards some local essentials: a place for coffee, a great spot for pizza, and a bakery for morning treats.

Setting out with Daan to find the recommended bakery felt like a small victory, a simple pleasure of travel. Though I later discovered a cheaper option – a lesson learned about always keeping an eye out for local prices! – That first walk through the morning streets, the air fresh and the city waking up, was a lovely introduction.

A Glimpse of the Harbour's Grandeur

Our path led us down to the harbour, a bustling hub where the modern world meets the ancient. Seeing a massive cruise ship docked alongside a magnificent five-masted vessel, likely worth a king's ransom, was quite a sight. It reminded me of the scale of travel for some, a stark contrast to my humble backpacker style.

I had a mission: to find postcards to send home and, more importantly for my tradition, a flag for my backpack. I love collecting flags from the countries I visit; they tell the story of my journey at a glance. Magnets seem to be the popular souvenir these days, but give me a flag any day! It was a bit of a hunt, but I'm determined to find one here in Split. (A little tip for fellow flag enthusiasts – I've found a great website called Backpackers Flags from Holland that's been a lifesaver for countries where finding a physical flag is tricky. I've already ordered flags for the countries I've visited and plan to get more as I go, just need to find someone with a sewing machine!

The Challenge of the Crowds: Old Town on a Saturday

My initial plan was to dive straight into the heart of Split's Old Town, the incredible Diocletian's Palace. This UNESCO World Heritage site is more than just ruins; it's a living, breathing part of the city, with shops, cafes, and homes nestled within its ancient walls.

A Step Back in Time: The History of Diocletian's Palace

Imagine this: nearly 1,700 years ago, a Roman Emperor named Diocletian decided to build his retirement palace right here on the Dalmatian coast. This wasn't just a small villa; it was a massive complex, more like a fortress city, covering over 30,000 square meters. Built between the late 3rd and early 4th centuries AD, the palace served as both a luxurious residence and a military garrison. After the Roman Empire declined, the palace didn't fall into ruin. Instead, people moved in, adapting the existing structures to their needs. Over centuries, houses, churches, and businesses were built within and around the palace walls, creating the unique urban fabric you see today. Walking through the Old Town means walking through layers of history, where Roman foundations support medieval buildings and Renaissance palaces stand alongside modern shops. It's a testament to the continuous life and evolution of this incredible place.

However, my attempt to enter the Old Town on this particular Saturday was, to put it mildly, a bit of a "nightmare." It was packed! Filled to the brim with, you guessed it, cruise ship tourists and tour groups. They were everywhere, spreading out like ants on a hot day, making navigating the narrow streets incredibly difficult. For someone like me, who prefers to take things at a steady pace and needs to be mindful of uneven surfaces and crowds due to my arthritis, this level of congestion was overwhelming. It wasn't the time for a leisurely wander. Adding to the throng was a home football match scheduled for the afternoon, bringing even more people into the city centre.

So, I made a strategic decision. This weekend was not the time to get lost in the palace's labyrinthine alleys. I decided to postpone my deep dive into the Old Town, hoping that by Monday, the cruise ships would have departed and the crowds would have thinned out. It's important to be flexible when travelling, especially as a senior traveller. Sometimes, the best plan is to adjust and find an alternative that's more comfortable and enjoyable.

Finding My Local Watering Hole

After the crowded encounter, I was ready for a break. I remembered a recommendation for a bar called La Linea, known for cheap beers. Sceptical but hopeful, I sought it out. To my absolute delight, the recommendation was spot on! Their beers were 50% cheaper than other bars I'd seen, where a pint could set you back 6 Euro (around NZD 11.40). At La Linea, it was a much more reasonable 3 Euro (around NZD 5.70). Finding a good, affordable spot like this is a small victory that makes a big difference when you're travelling on a budget and staying for a while. La Linea has quickly become my go-to place here in Split.

The Elusive Pizza and an Evening Chat

Later, hunger called, and I decided to try the recommended pizzeria. Finding it was easy enough, but my favourite pizza wasn't on the menu. Still, I decided to stay, hoping to find something else appealing. However, the service was non-existent. Two waiters were standing around chatting and on their phones, completely ignoring me sitting there waiting. After a good while, I decided my time was better spent elsewhere. I got up and left, letting them know they'd just lost a customer. It's a reminder that even in a place with great food recommendations, service can sometimes be a letdown.

I headed back to the hostel, opened a bottle of something refreshing, and settled in for more conversation with Daan and Fabian, who work at the hostel. These evenings, sharing stories and perspectives with people from different parts of the world, are truly one of the richest parts of travel.

Looking Ahead: A Coastal Walk and Another Chance at History

Tomorrow is another day, and I have a new plan. Instead of battling the Old Town crowds, I'm going to walk around the headland. I've heard it's a beautiful walk, offering stunning coastal views, and should take about 2-3 hours. It's a great way to see the natural beauty surrounding Split and get some good exercise in a less congested environment.

After the headland walk, I'll head back towards the harbour. Depending on the crowds, I might just give the Old Town another try. Hopefully, with the weekend rush subsiding, I'll be able to explore the ancient palace walls and soak in the history at a more comfortable pace. Flexibility and patience are key when travelling, especially when navigating popular destinations.

Join Me on the Journey

My time in Split is just one chapter in this grand adventure. Each city, each encounter, adds to the story I'm sharing with you. Through these blogs and photos, I hope to transport you from your living room to the streets of the world, allowing you to experience the sights, sounds, and feelings alongside me.

This journey is about more than just seeing new places; it's about embracing life, challenging perceptions, and making a difference. By following along, you're not only exploring the world through my eyes but also supporting my mission to raise awareness for Arthritis New Zealand.

Stay tuned for more updates from Split, including hopefully a successful exploration of the Old Town and tales from my headland walk!

If you've been inspired by my journey or want to learn more about the cause I'm supporting, please visit my website, Inspire Seniors Travel. You can follow my progress on the world map, view photos and videos, and find links to support my travels or donate directly to arthritis research.

Let's continue this adventure together!

Follow my journey on the world map: [Link to world map] Support my travels or donate to Arthritis Research: [Link to support/donation page] Subscribe to my newsletter for updates: [Link to newsletter signup]