Day 1: Leaving Kotor

Weather Update: Rain Clearing Later. High 16c Rain Forecast For The Week

Elevation Above Sea Level: 19 Metres

Day 1: The Bittersweet Goodbye

Leaving a hostel always stirs up emotions. I get attached to my surroundings and the people I meet, especially the hosts who make a place feel like home. Saying goodbye to Nicolina, a gem of a host, was difficult. Even after just 3–5 days, the connections run deep.

As I departed from this part of Montenegro, heading towards Bar, the rain accompanied me. But as we got closer, the weather transitioned from heavy rain to overcast skies—at least it was dry. The hostel was off the beaten track, requiring a steep climb, but I hoped the views would be worth it once the weather cleared.

Since it was a Sunday, many places were closed, but I managed to find a spot to enjoy a nice Capricciosa pizza. Back at the hostel, I shared a room with a 19-year-old remote worker who worked late into the night. By 9:30 p.m., I let her know I was turning off the light, prompting her to relocate. In the morning, she left at 6:30 a.m., making quite a bit of noise while packing. I always try to prepare my things the night before to avoid disturbing others, but some travellers either don’t realize or simply don’t care about being disruptive.

Day 2: The Train Ticket Mission

The day started wet, with heavy rain early on. By mid-morning, it had eased into a drizzle, allowing me to venture out with my mission for the day: purchasing a train ticket to Belgrade.

The station was about a 4 km walk, and by the time I arrived, the rain had stopped. Despite getting help at the ticket counter, I wasn’t confident I had secured the right ticket, so I planned to return the next day. The hostel was quite far from the city, so I decided to move to an apartment within walking distance of the train station.

For dinner, I craved spaghetti bolognese, but Montenegrins seem to favor pizza—it’s on every menu, even at Italian restaurants. And to be fair, their pizza is excellent.

As I returned to the hostel, a downpour left me soaked. With no other choice, I jumped into bed, warmed by the heat pump set to a cosy 20°C. The gloomy weather had prevented me from taking new photos, but I had a few from Kotor that would suffice for now.

Day 3: Moving Closer to the Station

It wasn’t raining today, but carrying bags on my back made the temperature feel much warmer than it was. Google Maps led me to my new apartment, but with no signs indicating I had arrived, I found myself uncertain. Since check-in wasn’t until 2 p.m. and it was only 11 a.m., I decided to wait at a nearby bar, hoping my emails to the host would allow me to check in early.

I no longer bother with buying a SIM card in every country, relying instead on WiFi in cafés, bars, and restaurants—or occasionally stopping a stranger to share theirs. Thankfully, the cloudy but dry weather meant my plans remained unchanged.

In the afternoon, I walked to the train station, hoping to buy my ticket in advance. However, I was told I could only purchase it on the day of travel, which turned out to be much cheaper than booking online.

Travelling is easy when someone else arranges everything, but it requires patience and planning. I needed to book three trains, and two hostels, and figure out transport between locations. Fortunately, my itinerary aligned well, with my longest walk being about 3 km. With an early 7 a.m. arrival in Belgrade, I would have the entire day to get situated before continuing to Kosovo.

Day 4: Exploring Old Town Bar

My one-bedroom apartment, perched on the sixth floor, was a comfortable change of pace—50 euros well spent. The forecast predicted rain, but I left while it was still dry. An hour later, though, the downpour caught up with me, drenching me as I wandered through Old Town Bar. Seeking refuge, I stopped for a foot-long kebab, eating two-thirds and saving the rest for breakfast.

As the rain eased, I reconsidered my route and decided to make my way back toward the city. At the last minute, I opted to take a bus rather than hike the steep 2 km hill leading up to the ruins—a decision I was grateful for after seeing just how challenging the climb would have been.

Walking through the ruins of Old Town Bar felt like stepping back in time. I imagined the thousands of people who had walked the same cobbled streets centuries ago. What were their lives like? I pictured children running playfully through the narrow lanes, merchants selling their wares in bustling markets, and soldiers stationed in the town during various military campaigns. The abandoned streets and crumbling buildings had an eerie beauty, whispering stories of the past.

A Glimpse into Old Town Bar

Old Town Bar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to a rich cultural and historical heritage. Some of the most significant structures include:

Main Gate (14th–16th century)

Customs House (15th century)

Saint Nicholas' Church (13th century)

Tatarovica Citadel (10th–19th century)

Saint George's Cathedral (11th–15th century)

Clock Tower (built in 1752)

Turkish Bath (18th century, now reconstructed and functional)

Prince and Bishop’s Palace (15th–16th century)

Ramparts (11th–19th century)

Old Town Bar stands out from other medieval towns due to its unique blend of Illyrian, Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, Slavic, Venetian, and Ottoman influences. Unlike many similar sites, it has been uninhabited since the late 19th century, making it one of the region's largest preserved walled archaeological sites.

The ruins, layered with centuries of history, are a fascinating reminder of the many civilizations that have shaped this coastal town. Walking through them, you can’t help but feel the weight of time, wondering about the countless lives that once thrived within these now-empty walls.

The city of Bar is not somewhere you would come for a holiday, at the weekend, maybe, but the Old Town is worth the trip. If you are travelling by bus to Bar go to the bus station which has buses straight to Old Town, had I known how nice it is I would have stayed there for two nights and left rather than stay for 4 nights. Bar is the stepping stone for the scenic train ride to Belgrade it is a shame it only runs daily services from June but I have a workaround let's hope the weather works.

Sorry the weather has made this a long one but it is what it is, just enjoy the read.

Andrew

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