Day 331: Petrin Hill One Way Then Another

Weather Update: Cloudy with Sunny Intervals

Elevation Prague: 177 to 399 Metres (581-1309 ft) at its highest point.

A Late Start and a Little Cash Drama

I was woken early by the sounds of people leaving the dorm. I nearly said something but decided against it — and good thing too, because when I finally checked my phone, I was shocked to see it was already 9:05 a.m.! I hurried to finish uploading photos for distribution and then headed out, planning to get some cash before exploring.

My digital card, which usually works for withdrawals, refused me this time. In New Zealand, my credit card doesn’t allow cash advances, but on a whim, I gave it a try — and voilà, it worked. Crisis averted.

The sky looked gloomy, and with Old Town about 2.7 kilometres away, I decided to stay local for now. Back at the hostel, I asked the receptionist for somewhere nearby to enjoy a beer. He suggested the Strahov Monastery, famous for its on-site brewery. That was all the encouragement I needed.

The Climb Up Petrin Hill

What began as a flat morning stroll turned into quite the uphill challenge. I had no idea that reaching the monastery meant climbing Petrin Hill, which rises to 327 metres (1,073 ft). To make matters worse, I was wearing sandals instead of walking shoes — a rookie mistake that reminded me to always check the route first.

Petrin Hill is a green oasis above Prague, blanketed with gardens, orchards, and quiet walking paths. It was once quarried for building stone and later cultivated as a vineyard. Today, it’s a favourite escape for locals, dotted with the Rose Garden, Seminary Garden, and countless trails that twist in all directions. Picking the right path was tricky — I took a few wrong turns and several breath-catching pauses — but eventually, I reached the top.

The Hunger Wall

Partway up the hill runs an imposing stone structure known as the Hunger Wall, built between 1360 and 1362 by order of Emperor Charles IV. The wall originally stood over four metres high and nearly two metres thick, with battlements and eight bastions. Its purpose was to strengthen Prague’s western defences around Malá Strana and Prague Castle.

The name Hunger Wall comes from the story that Charles IV commissioned the work to employ the city’s poor during a famine, giving them both wages and dignity. The wall has been repaired many times since, most notably in 1624 and during the 18th and 20th centuries. One bastion now serves as the base of the Stefanik Observatory dome.

Stefanik Observatory

At the summit, the trail opens into a plateau of gardens and paths leading to the Stefanik Observatory, founded in 1928 and named after Slovak astronomer Milan Rastislav Štefánik. The observatory’s twin domes house professional telescopes, and staff astronomers guide visitors through the wonders of the night sky. Unfortunately, the overcast weather meant there wasn’t much stargazing potential today — but if the skies clear later in the week, I might return for a look at the heavens.

Petrin Tower: Prague’s Mini Eiffel

Standing proudly nearby is the Petrin Tower, Prague’s answer to the Eiffel Tower. Built in 1891 for the Jubilee Exhibition, it rises 63.5 metres (208 ft) and offers panoramic views of the city. Constructed in just four months, the tower symbolised a century of industrial progress.

Visitors can climb the 299 steps spiralling to the top, or take the small internal lift (a welcome option for seniors or anyone with mobility challenges). Unfortunately, the funicular railway that normally connects the hill to the city is currently under reconstruction, so the only way up is on foot or by road. A scooter might be my plan for a future visit — my sandals certainly wouldn’t mind.

Strahov Monastery Brewery

Descending along the Hunger Wall, I followed the road towards the Strahov Monastery, home to a centuries-old brewing tradition. The courtyard restaurant was busy, but I managed to squeeze onto the end of a table shared with a friendly group of Spanish travellers.

I hadn’t planned to eat — just a couple of beers — but when plates of steaming food passed by, my resolve crumbled. I ordered the Dark Lager Beef Goulash with dumplings, paired with a pint of their Antidepressant Dark Lager. The brewery calls it that because it’s meant to lift your autumn blues — rich, malty, and brewed with fresh Czech hops. The goulash, cooked in the same beer, was equally comforting: pure Czech soul food.

Total: Two beers and goulash — 459 CZK (€18.84 / NZD 38.23).

Worth every crown.

Evening at One Arbes Hostel

I took a stroll back downhill to One Arbes Hostel for the evening. Dinner was a shared affair — two types of pasta — followed by card games that stretched late into the night. A few of the younger guests went off on a pub crawl (some didn’t return until 4 a.m.), but I happily stayed behind, content with good company and the memory of a satisfying day.

Reflections

Today was my first real day exploring Prague, and what a workout it turned out to be — 10.84 kilometres up and down hills, through history and hops alike. Petrin Hill tested my stamina, but it also rewarded me with sweeping views, centuries-old stories, and a monastery that serves one of the best dark lagers I’ve ever tasted.

Tomorrow, I’ll trade the quiet of the hillside for the bustle of the Old Town — and continue uncovering the many layers of this remarkable city.

Andrew

inspireseniorstravel.com