Day 319: Copenhagen’s Mermaid Walk

I woke to a bright sunny morning after a decent night’s sleep. Today I plan to follow the Mermaid Walk through Copenhagen’s port area. Alexandra had pointed out a few highlights the night before, so I set off with suggestions in mind.

I caught the S-Train part of the way but got off too early. That left me with a three-kilometre walk before even starting the route. After walking over 16 kilometres yesterday, I felt it, but the sunshine kept me going.

The Little Mermaid

Arriving at the waterfront, I joined crowds of tourists gathered around Copenhagen’s most famous landmark—the Little Mermaid statue. A cruise ship had just docked, and the headland was packed to the rafters.

The statue, commissioned in 1909 by Carl Jacobsen, a Carlsberg brewer, was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale. Its head was modelled on ballerina Ellen Price, but the body was sculptor Edvard Eriksen’s wife, Eline. Small and unimposing, yet instantly recognisable, it has become an icon of the city.

I managed a few photos before moving on quickly, weaving my way back through the cruise ship crowds.

Kastellet Fortress

A short walk brought me to Kastellet, one of Northern Europe’s most impressive and best-preserved fortifications. The pentagram-shaped fortress has bastions at its corners and is surrounded by a moat.

Construction began in 1626 under King Christian IV, but money soon ran out. His successor, King Frederik III, pushed it forward, and later Dutch engineer Henrik Ruse reinforced it following Swedish sieges in 1658 and 1660.

The grassy mounds were designed to absorb cannon fire, a clever way of reducing damage. Standing atop the ramparts gave me a fine view over the harbour. Inside, the orange-washed, long terraces resembled old soldiers’ quarters. Outside the walls, I noticed similar housing blocks, also painted in the same orange wash, echoing the barracks within.

Today, the site is still owned by the Defence Ministry and houses various military offices, though to visitors it feels more like a peaceful park.

Gefion Fountain

Crossing a bridge, I reached the Gefion Fountain, a grand mix of art and mythology. The sculpture shows the Norse goddess Gefjon driving four oxen. According to legend, they were once her sons, transformed into animals so she could plough enough land to create Zealand, the island on which Copenhagen now sits.

The fountain is both a landmark and a reminder of Denmark’s deep roots in Norse mythology.

St Alban’s Church

Right beside the fountain is St Alban’s Church, known locally as the English Church. Built between 1885 and 1887 for Copenhagen’s Anglican community, its tower was fitted with tubular bells because the structure couldn’t support the weight of traditional ones.

Eight bells were donated by Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, who later became King Edward VII. In 2013, Prince William funded the addition of seven more, bringing the total to fifteen, and now they are controlled by a computer program.

Inside, like so many European churches, the craftsmanship immediately draws your attention and admiration.

Alexander Nevsky Church

Walking west, I passed one of the many WWII bunkers scattered across Copenhagen. Most are locked, though I thought it would be interesting if one were converted into a small underground café or bar.

Soon I reached the Alexander Nevsky Church, the city’s only Russian Orthodox church. It was built in 1883 by the Russian government to mark the wedding of Alexander Alexandrovich—later Tsar Alexander III—and Princess Dagmar of Denmark.

The project was funded by the Tsar himself, at the urging of his Danish-born wife, Maria Feodorovna. He reportedly disapproved of the chosen location for religious reasons, since Orthodox tradition called for free-standing buildings.

I arrived during mass and waited quietly before being able to take photos. The church sits several floors above street level, and inside it feels dark with all the wooden panelling, which makes the light subdued, creating a solemn atmosphere.

Frederik’s Church (The Marble Church)

A short walk further brought me to Frederik’s Church, better known as The Marble Church. Its vast green dome, the largest in Scandinavia with a span of 31 metres, dominates the Frederiksstaden district.

The church was designed in 1740 by Nicolai Eigtved to mark 300 years of the Oldenburg dynasty. Construction stopped in 1770, and the building was left incomplete for almost 150 years, standing as a ruin until it was finally finished in the late 19th century.

Inside, the Rococo style and soaring dome make a powerful impression. I sat quietly for a time, letting the peace of the space settle in, and found myself reflecting on the journey so far.

Mansions of Frederiksstaden

My walk next took me to the Moltke Mansion, originally built in 1700–02 as “Gyldenløve’s Little Mansion” for Ulrik Frederik Gyldenløve. The carved sandstone decorations feature elephants and lions. In 1842 it was bought by Adam Wilhelm Moltke, Denmark’s first Prime Minister under the constitutional monarchy.

I stepped inside the entrance hall, but the inner doors were locked, so I could go no further.

Nearby, the Odd Fellows Mansion was also closed. It has been home to the local branch of the Order of Odd Fellows since 1900. The organisation, founded in 18th-century England, promotes friendship, love, truth, and charitable work. It would have been nice to see inside, but as always in travel, you take what you find.

Amaliehaven Gardens

Retracing my steps towards the river, I reached Amaliehaven, a small formal park created in 1983 on the site of an old shipyard.

The gardens are laid out symmetrically with a central fountain, linking the waterfront to Amalienborg Palace. The air was filled with the scent of flowers and the sight of cherry trees. A vendor was selling oysters with glasses of wine or beer, giving the spot a lively feel.

Amalienborg Palace

Across the way stood Amalienborg Palace, the official residence of Denmark’s royal family. Four identical Classical façades surround an octagonal courtyard, with an equestrian statue of Frederik V in the centre.

The palaces were originally built for noble families, but when fire destroyed Christiansborg Palace in 1794, the royal family moved in. Successive monarchs have lived here ever since.

On my visit, the square was packed, with at least nine tour groups circling. Amid the crowds, it was easy to forget that this square once saw fighting: on April 9, 1940, Danish guards clashed here with German troops at the start of the occupation.

Evening Reflections

By late afternoon, my legs were ready for rest. I stopped for a pint at the Old English Pub before catching the train back to Valby, where I picked up a chicken kebab on the way to Alexandra’s place.

She was curious to hear about my day and laughed when I told her about nearly being run over in the cycle lanes. Copenhagen really is a cyclist’s city, and if you’re not used to it, you learn fast that bikes always have priority.

We talked about the city from her perspective, having lived here so many years, and I enjoyed hearing the local view on the places I’d just seen.

Copenhagen is a beautiful city to walk in, but it is expensive if you pay entry fees individually. The Copenhagen Card is well worth considering—it includes public transport and entry to many attractions, from city museums to Kronborg Castle and the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

Another full day complete. Tomorrow, the journey continues south to Hamburg.