Day 304: Leaving for Turku

Weather Update: Sunny. High 21c

Morning Journey

No issues this morning. I found some pizza in the fridge, free to a good home, so that became breakfast. Getting from the hostel to the bus station was a breeze. We boarded at 7:15 am and left on time, scheduled to arrive at 9:25 am.

The trip itself wasn’t memorable—trees lined both sides of the road for most of the way, with only the occasional open stretch, nothing particularly spectacular. This stop in Turku is just for the night; tomorrow I’ll board a 12-hour Viking Line ferry to Stockholm, where I’ve booked four nights.

First Impressions of Turku

From the bus station, it was a 3.3 km walk along the river to my accommodation. I arrived around 10:30 am, but no one was home, so I left my bag out back. Not keen to retrace my steps, I decided to try my first electric scooter—easier on the body than walking—and cruised straight into the central square where Turku Cathedral rises above everything else.

Turku was Finland’s original capital until 1812, when Emperor Alexander I of Russia moved it to Helsinki. The shift was designed to reduce Sweden’s lingering influence and bring the administration closer to Saint Petersburg, then the heart of the Russian Empire.

Turku Cathedral

I parked the scooter and climbed the cathedral steps. The best part—it was free to enter. Inside, the vaulted ceiling soared 24 metres overhead, and the main façade stretched the length of the nave. I sat quietly in a pew for five minutes, enjoying the rare stillness of a church with so few visitors inside.

The cathedral is the most important religious building in Finland, the Mother Church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church, and the only medieval basilica in the country. Built in the late 13th century out of wood and consecrated in 1300 as the seat of the Catholic bishop of Turku, it expanded over the following centuries in stone. It has seen centuries of history pass through its doors, from royal events to national tragedies. Even the Great Fire of Turku in 1827 nearly destroyed it, but it was rebuilt and still stands proudly today.

Market Square & the Orthodox Church

Leaving the cathedral, I headed for Market Square. One side bustled with vegetable stalls, and on the other stood the Greek Orthodox Church of Turku. Entry was free here, too, and I stepped inside to a dazzling surprise. The ceiling glittered with golden stars, the walls alive with colour—more vibrant than many of the Helsinki churches where you’d have to pay for entry. Outside stood one of the original bells, once housed in the dome, now on display: 5 feet tall, 10 feet across, and weighing two tonnes.

This church, officially dedicated to St. Alexandra the Martyr, was commissioned by Nicholas I of Russia in 1838. Designed by Carl Ludvig Engel, its construction cost 67,886 rubles and was finished in 1845. Its patron saint, Alexandra, was the wife of the Roman emperor Diocletian who converted to Christianity and was executed for her faith in 303 AD. The dedication may also have had a personal touch—Nicholas I’s own wife was Aleksandra Feodorovna.

Scootering to Turku Castle

From the square, I grabbed another scooter and set off toward Turku Castle. After ten minutes, I realised I’d gone the wrong way, so I turned around and followed the river for another 3 km until the castle finally appeared.

Founded in the late 13th century, Turku Castle is the largest surviving medieval building in Finland. It began as a Swedish fortress and later grew into a residence and military stronghold. During the late 14th century, the notorious Victual Brothers—pirates turned privateers—may even have used it as a base. They caused chaos in the archipelago, looting ships, raiding the cathedral, and shaking Turku’s foundations. Today, though, much of the castle is under restoration. Few tourists were around, the restaurant was open, but at €16 entry, I chose to pass—better to spend my €30 daily budget on food.

On the way, I passed the Suomen Joutsen, a white, three-masted steel-hulled sailing ship. Built in 1902 in St. Nazaire, France, she began life as Laënnec, sailed under German ownership as Oldenburg, and finally came to Finland in 1930. Refit as a naval training ship, she made eight long international voyages before WWII and later served in support roles during the war. From 1961, she became a stationary seamen’s school, and since 1991, she has been moored in Turku as a museum ship. Seeing her gleaming by the riverside was like stepping into another age of travel.

Turku Market Hall

From the castle, I scooted five minutes back toward the centre to visit the Turku Market Hall. Inside, it felt almost identical to the market hall in Helsinki, but here prices were far cheaper.

Opened in 1896, it is Finland’s second-oldest market hall. Built with over 300,000 bricks and 42 tonnes of iron parts, it originally housed 151 shops—53 of them selling fresh meat. Gas lamps once lit the space before electricity arrived in 1932. Remarkably, running water was installed as early as 1905, allowing for aquariums with live fish for sale: pike, eels, bream, even flounder. Today, it still buzzes with life and trade.

Old Town & a Bar from Bristol

I then looked for Turku’s “Old Town,” but it turned out to be little more than a handful of older houses. Across the street, though, I noticed Bar Bristol—and being from Bristol myself, I had to go in.

The owner was friendly, and we got chatting. Today, as it turned out, was the start of the term for the university students. Their tradition? A bar crawl through 16 pubs, one shot at each. Every student carries a card with bar numbers, collecting stamps along the way.

Bar Bristol is stop number one. The owner told me they’d sell over 500 shots today at €3.50 each—good business at nearly €1,750 (about NZD 3,500). From my seat, I watched a constant stream of students pouring in, throwing back a shot, and dashing out again. By evening, no doubt, things would slow down as the alcohol caught up. Student life in Finland, it seems, is much the same as in New Zealand—loud, lively, and fuelled by tradition. Students dress up in this fashion, and different colours represent the different degree that each student is taking. (Photos Attached)

Wrapping Up the Day

By late afternoon, I had made three scooter trips, covering roughly 4 km. Tomorrow’s journey to the Viking Line ferry terminal will be 2.7 km across the river, and if the scooter I parked outside the guesthouse is still there in the morning, it will save me some effort.

The guesthouse itself is simple. My “room” is more of a converted space than a true bedroom, but it works for an overnight stop. I settled in with a bag of chips, a couple of cans, and a film before sleep.

Turku may be more of a base for ferries to Sweden than a destination in its own right, but it gave me a day full of history, colour, and unexpected conversations. My muscles ache from scootering over cobblestones—those stones really do make you work parts of your body you don’t normally use—but tomorrow will bring new horizons.

See you aboard the Viking Line ferry to Stockholm.

—Andrew (inspireseniorstravel.com)