Day 301: A Special Milestone in Helsinki

Yesterday was a special milestone — 300 days of travel. I slept well and woke ready to explore Helsinki, with my first stop planned for Senate Square.

Getting There – A Metro Mix-Up

Armed with the metro map, I set off confidently. The map pointed me in the “right” direction… but actually the wrong way. After five minutes, I hopped off, crossed the platform, and headed back the other way. A small hiccup, but part of the fun.

Climbing out of the station, I was greeted by blue skies dotted with cotton-wool clouds. It was 10:30 am and already busy with a tour group taking over the square — I would bump into them several times during the day. A tip for fellow travellers: come early in the morning, especially during cruise ship season.

Senate Square & Helsinki Cathedral

Senate Square forms the oldest part of central Helsinki, framed by neoclassical buildings designed by Carl Ludvig Engel. At its centre stands a statue of Emperor Alexander II, erected in 1894 to honour reforms that increased Finland’s autonomy under Russian rule.

Today, much of the square is under construction. Cobblestones are being lifted and resealed with hot bitumen. To me, the glossy black finish looks too modern — it will take time before the surface regains the patina of age.

The dominant sight is, of course, Helsinki Cathedral, built 1830–1852 as a tribute to Emperor Nicholas I. Originally known as St. Nicholas’s Church, it was renamed after independence in 1917. Its green dome, flanked by four smaller ones, is one of Helsinki’s defining landmarks.

Right now, the cathedral is wrapped in plastic sheeting printed with its design while limestone repairs take place — a job repeated 15 times in the past century due to the harsh seaside weather. Up close, the covering is surprisingly convincing. Inside, the vast dome soars overhead, the organ gleams at the rear, and entry is free outside high season, with the normal cost €10 or 19.69NZD

Harbour & Uspenski Cathedral

From the square I headed to the harbour. The giant Silja Line Ferry was docked, ready for its 17-hour overnight trip to Stockholm. I’ve opted instead for the bus to Turku and ferry from there — cheaper overall with an overnight stop.

Nearby, the red-brick Uspenski Cathedral rises on its hilltop, the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe. Entry is €5 (NZD 9.87). The place was swarming with Chinese coach tours, so I decided to skip for now and perhaps return later.

A Pause at Allas Pool

Beside the harbour sits Allas Sea Pool, a modern marine spa with three floating pools, saunas, and a rooftop terrace. Opened in 2016, it’s become a favourite hangout. I stopped for a short break, enjoying the 21°C sunshine while boats ferried visitors to the islands and to Suomenlinna Fortress.

Market Square – Food & History

Crossing the bridge brought me into Market Square, buzzing with stalls selling woollen goods, souvenirs, and food aimed at cruise visitors.

I tried a Finnish meat pie (€5) — minced meat, onion, and rice. Honestly, 5/10. It lacked seasoning and couldn’t match a good Kiwi pie. Later, I had salmon paella with yellow rice (€13), which was tasty but expensive. Eating in Finland on NZD makes you feel poor quickly! A man nearby paid €20 for a meal and a beer €8 which would cost €3 in a supermarket.

Market Square itself has history. Once a fishing bay, it became the main hub for local fishermen. At its centre stands the Empress Stone, erected in 1835 to mark the first visit of Empress Alexandra, wife of Nicholas I. The bronze eagle atop the obelisk was attacked during the 1917 revolution but was later restored.

Old Market Hall

Just a short walk away, the Old Market Hall (Vanha kauppahalli) has served locals since 1889. Its cast-iron structure and wooden stalls are unchanged in spirit, and inside you find vendors selling fish, cheeses, spices, and sweets.

I stopped for a beer (€9 / NZD 15.77). Pricey, even compared with Australia. Salmon shocked me most: €30/kg for Atlantic salmon, compared with NZD 44.95/kg back home (about €22) or (Siika Common White Fish) 56 Euro or 110NZD. No wonder a bowl of salmon soup will set you back a hefty sum.

Havis Amanda Statue

Outside the Market Hall stands Havis Amanda, a bronze mermaid unveiled in 1908. Each May Day, she is washed and “crowned” in a lively student celebration known as Mantan lakitus.

A Sweet Stop at Fazer Cafe

My final stop was Fazer Cafe. I had expected an old-world atmosphere, but the building has been modernised. Inside, however, the Art Nouveau ceiling survives. Opened in 1891 by Karl Fazer, this café was the foundation of the Fazer company, now famous for its chocolate.

Reflections on Helsinki

It was a busy but easy day of sightseeing. I enjoyed Helsinki’s main landmarks, though I couldn’t help noticing it lacks the medieval Old Town charm of Tallinn or Riga. Its history is instead rooted in its rapid 18th–19th century growth, when it became Finland’s capital under Russian rule and later industrialised — in a way, not so different from New Zealand’s relatively young history.

By evening, I was back at the hostel, finishing my blog with sore feet but happy memories. A fitting way to celebrate Day 301 of my journey.

🗺️ Walking Route Overview

Here’s how my day flowed on foot:

Kamppi → Metro → Senate Square & Helsinki Cathedral → Harbour → Uspenski Cathedral → Allas Sea Pool → Market Square → Old Market Hall → Havis Amanda → Fazer Café → Hostel.