Exploring the Old City: Paphos and Famagusta Gates

Extending My Stay

On Wednesday, I decided to extend my stay until Sunday, giving me more time to explore the Old City and some of its historic entry points. With my plan set, I ventured out, eager to uncover the stories within the ancient walls of Lefkosia (Nicosia).

A Stop by the Peacock Enclosure

As I made my way toward Paphos Gate, I passed a beautiful water feature with a stunning view, making it the perfect spot for a quick photo. Nearby, I noticed a huge cage filled with peacocks—four males and three females. While they were magnificent to look at, it was a shame they were confined rather than roaming freely through the park.

Paphos Gate: A Portal to the Past

I reached Paphos Gate without too much difficulty. This was one of the three gates in the Venetian walls built around Lefkosia (Nicosia). Interestingly, the city's name is pronounced differently depending on the language: in English, we say "Nick-co-see-a," while in Turkish Cyprus, it's pronounced "Nick-co-she-a."

The road leading from the gate once connected directly to Pafos (Paphos), giving the gate its name. Historically, it was also called the Gate of San Domenico, replacing an earlier gate from the Frankish era known as Porta di San Domenico after a nearby abbey.

The gate itself is a simple structure—an opening in the wall covered by a barrel vault. During British occupation in 1878, part of the walls between the gate and the Roccas Bastion was demolished to create a new opening. Today, the Pafos Gate Police Station stands just above the original gate.

After taking some photos, I moved on to my next destination: Famagusta Gate.

Navigating Through the Old City

I followed a designated walking route on my phone, but when I arrived at the border, I found the road unexpectedly blocked—despite my map showing it as a passable route. I quickly readjusted to my surroundings and found an alternative path. This new route took me through the winding roads of the Old City, past historic buildings, and alongside the border.

Famagusta Gate: A Grand Entrance

The Famagusta Gate (Turkish: Mağusa Kapısı) is the most significant of the city's gates. Originally known as Porta Giuliana, it was built in the Venetian style, a model after the Lazaretto Gate of Candia, designed by Michael Sammicheli in the early 16th century.

The gate consists of a vaulted passage through the city's earthwork rampart, featuring a central spherical dome with an eleven-meter (36-foot) diameter. The passageway is wide enough for two vehicles to pass side by side and is illuminated by a circular opening in the dome, similar to the Pantheon in Rome.

On either side of the passage, there are entrances to chambers that are now blocked off. The external doorway, once grand, has suffered damage over time, with arch stones missing and the ancient doors long gone. However, the inner facade facing the town remains an imposing and impressive sight.

Relaxing at Cheers Bar

After a long day of exploring, I stopped at Cheers Bar, where my host served me a drink while I watched a replay of last night’s football match. It was a great way to unwind after all the walking and history lessons of the day.

A Simple but Satisfying Meal

When the game ended, I made my way back to the hostel and stopped at a local shop that serves home-style cooking. I picked up a plate of Spaghetti Bolognese (Spag Bog) with yellow rice—a hearty and comforting meal. Back at the hostel, I paired it with a cold beer and reflected on the day’s adventures.

It was a good day today. Plenty of walking, unexpected discoveries, and a deeper appreciation for the history surrounding me.

Looking forward to what tomorrow brings!