Day 293: Walking Riga’s Old Town

The day started early with two fellow guests chatting at 7:10 a.m., which woke me from a nice dream. Once I was up, they went back to sleep. After breakfast — fuel for a day of cobblestones — I set off around 10:30, said a few farewells, and made plans to possibly meet up again in Tallinn, Estonia, my next stop.

My first destination was Town Hall Square and the House of the Blackheads. Thanks to a new SIM card, navigating the streets was easy. The main challenge was the number of tourist groups, which I suspect came from a cruise ship docked nearby. It reminded me of Gdansk on a busy day. Still, with school holidays ending, the crowds should soon thin out.

Town Hall Square

Town Hall Square has been at the heart of Riga since 1210. Almost everything here was destroyed during World War II, but the square has since been carefully rebuilt. Today you’ll see the restored façades of the Town Hall, the House of the Blackheads, and other striking buildings.

This square also has a festive claim to fame. Records show that in 1510, the Brotherhood of Blackheads decorated and later burned a tree here, which many believe to be the first documented Christmas tree. Tallinn, Estonia, also claims the title with a date of 1441, so the debate continues.

Roland Statue

In the middle of the square stands the Roland Statue, a figure common across Northern Europe. Roland, nephew of Charlemagne, became a symbol of justice, and cities often displayed statues of him as a sign of their independence. Riga’s version reflects its proud role as a trading hub in the Hanseatic League.

House of the Blackheads

Across from Town Hall is the House of the Blackheads, fully reconstructed after the war. For just 5 euros (about 9.92 NZD, with pensioner discounts available), entry is well worth it.

The original building, first built in 1334, was used as a warehouse and meeting hall for merchants. Later it became the base of the Brotherhood of Blackheads, a guild for unmarried merchants, shipowners, and foreigners. Today, it is both a museum and an event space. Upstairs, the grand ballrooms — once used to welcome kings, queens, and presidents — remain the highlight.

Powder Tower

A short walk away is the Powder Tower, originally built in 1330 as part of Riga’s defensive walls. Once called the Sand Tower, it gained its current name in the 17th century when it was used to store gunpowder. Its present appearance dates from 1650, and today it houses a museum. Even just from the outside, it’s an imposing reminder of Riga’s military past.

Swedish Gate and City Wall

The Old Town is small, so reaching the Swedish Gate took just a few minutes. Built when Riga was under Swedish rule, it linked the fortified city to military quarters outside. It is the only remaining gate of the eight that once protected the city.

A story tied to the gate tells of a young woman who fell in love with a Swedish soldier. When their romance was discovered, the soldier disappeared, and the woman was said to be bricked into the gate as punishment. Tales like this bring the old stones to life.

Līvu Square

From there, I wandered over to Līvu Square, another area rebuilt after the war. Today it’s one of Riga’s liveliest spots, with cafés, restaurants, and plenty of seating. In summer, flowerbeds are arranged in wave shapes to recall a lost river. In winter, the square becomes a skating rink.

Opposite stands the quirky Cat House, built in 1909. The story goes that the wealthy owner, after a dispute with the powerful Great Guild across the street, placed two black cats on the roof with their tails defiantly raised toward the guild hall. The gesture caused outrage at the time, but today the cats are beloved symbols of Riga’s playful side.

St. James Church

Unlike many of Riga’s churches, St. James Church works on donations rather than a set fee. Outside, the scallop shell of the Camino de Santiago is set into the cobblestones, marking its link to the famous pilgrimage route.

First recorded in 1226, the church has a long and shifting history. Its bell once rang to call citizens to public executions, and the building itself changed between Catholic and Lutheran use depending on who ruled Riga. Since 1923, it has been Catholic once again. Inside, it offers both history and a quiet place for reflection.

Reflections

Riga’s Old Town may be compact, but by the end of the day, I had walked more than 10 kilometres under sunny skies. The House of the Blackheads stood out as my highlight, though there’s still more to see. With Tallinn coming up, I’ll decide whether to spend another day here or move on.

It was a productive day and a reminder that even small cities can offer full days of history, culture, and enjoyment. I hope my travels encourage you to explore too — I keep meeting people who are doing just that, and it’s inspiring.

— Andrew, Inspire Seniors Travel