Day 2: Exploring Sofia on Foot

Weather: Sunny with cloudy periods, High 9°C

Elevation: 595 metres (1,952 ft)

A Slow Start and a Strong Coffee

After a long day yesterday, I slept in until 8 AM. The lovely lady at the hostel insisted on making me two espressos this morning, and after enjoying them, I asked her to show me how the machine works. Still, I’m more than happy to let her keep making them!

Breakfast—and Budget Surprises

I left the hostel around 10 AM and found a bakery near the square. I ordered a drink and two toasties—one for now and one for tomorrow since I’ve booked a trip to the Rila Monastery, two hours away (€35 / NZD 69.54). It’s blown my budget well beyond what I planned. When I went to pay for breakfast, I expected the total to be around 19 BGN (NZD 19.33) based on the menu. But after taxes (20%) and a built-in tip, it came to 28 BGN (NZD 28.49). Not somewhere I’ll return. The local markets are much more budget-friendly.

Interestingly, today hospitality protests are happening across the country. Bars and restaurants are urging the government to reduce the tax from 20% to 9%, which many say is hurting their businesses. I can’t justify paying that much extra—it’s just not sustainable on a travel budget.

The Self-Guided Walking Tour Begins

Getting Around: Sofia’s Colourful Trams

Right outside the hostel, Sofia’s vibrant tram system crisscrosses the city centre. Each line seems to have its colour—red, blue, orange, green, and yellow—transporting people through the business district and beyond. I imagine each colour denotes a specific route or region.

Central Mineral Baths

My first stop was the Central Mineral Baths, a beautiful early 20th-century building located in a park opposite the Central Market Hall. It once served as Sofia’s public bathhouse until 1986 and stands today as an architectural landmark built on the site of former Turkish baths, drawing on the area’s mineral-rich springs.

Banya Bashi Mosque

Nearby stands the Banya Bashi Mosque, designed by the legendary Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan—the same man behind Istanbul’s iconic Süleymaniye Mosque. The mosque features classic Islamic architectural elements: a central dome, four corners, and a tall minaret. A small outbuilding with three domes commemorates the wife of Kada Seyfullah Effendi. The most recent renovations date back to the 1920s.

Vitosha Boulevard – Where Sofia Comes Alive

A short walk from the mosque took me to Vitosha Boulevard, Sofia’s iconic day-to-night street. Named after nearby Vitosha Mountain, the boulevard has a rich history—from humble one-storey Ottoman-era houses to grand buildings from the interwar period. Today, it’s packed with shops, cafés, and life.

Travel Moments: Postcard Drama & Price Wars

I tried to buy postcards at one shop for 3 BGN, but they couldn’t break a 50 BGN note. Further down the street, I found the same cards—double the price at 6 BGN! When I mentioned the cheaper price nearby, the shopkeeper didn’t seem to care. Lesson learned: sometimes going back is worth it.

Off the Beaten Path:

Turkish Barracks and Historical Echoes

I spotted golden roofs in the distance and decided to follow them. Along the way, I stumbled across remnants of Turkish Barracks from the 16th century. These dungeons once held Bulgarian revolutionaries, including Vassil Levsky, who was led from nearby artillery barracks to his execution. His name still echoes as a national symbol of freedom.

Sofia’s Spiritual Icons

St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

This monumental cathedral was built in memory of Bulgaria’s victory over Ottoman rule. The gold-plated dome stands 45 metres (148 ft) tall (53 metres including the cross). Inside, twelve massive bells—one weighing 12 tons—fill the basilica with sound.

The building is a patchwork of European craftsmanship:

Marble from Munich

Metal gates from Vienna

Mosaics from Venice

Lighting fixtures from Berlin

It’s not just stunning—it’s a symbol of Bulgaria’s pan-European legacy.

Church of St. Nicholas

Tucked nearby is the St. Nicholas Church, heavily influenced by Russian Orthodox design. Built on the site of ancient Roman palace ruins, this small but beloved chapel dates back to the 13th century. Each year, locals flock here for blessings, especially on December 6, the feast day of St. Nicholas.

A Quiet Evening in a Tense City

I’m now sitting outside in the cold finishing up this blog. Most bars and restaurants are closed until 7 PM due to the protest, and the city feels unusually quiet. People are leaving town early, and I hope the demonstration sends a clear message to the government.

Final Thoughts

Today was less about being a tourist and more about experiencing Sofia—its history, its people, its small frustrations, and its resilience. Travel isn’t just about seeing sights; it’s about understanding place, people, and culture—and sometimes, about influencing others to care too.

Tomorrow: The Rila Monastery Adventure