Day 2: The Killing Fields and S-21 Prison

Weather Update: Sunny with some early morning clouds. High of 29°C.

Morning by the Mekong River

I spent the morning along the Mekong River, soaking up the sun before being picked up for an afternoon tour of S-21 Prison and the Killing Fields. These sites hold a dark chapter in Cambodian history, one that isn't fresh in my mind as it occurred in 1975, but today's visit made the atrocities under Pol Pot's regime very real.

S-21 Prison (Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum)

Formerly known as Tuol Svay Prey High School, S-21, also called the "Hill of the Poisonous Trees" or "Strychnine Hill," is now a museum chronicling the Cambodian genocide. The Khmer Rouge regime turned it into a security prison from 1975 to 1979. During this time, an estimated 20,000 people were imprisoned here, making it one of the 150-196 torture and execution centres run by the regime and its secret police, the Santebal, meaning "keeper of peace."

More than two million people were thought to have been executed during Pol Pot's reign, yet he was never brought to justice for these crimes. On 26 July 2010, Kang Kek Lew, the prison's chief, was convicted of crimes against humanity and died in 2020 while serving a life sentence. One New Zealander, Kerry Hamill, was captured, tortured, and eventually burnt alive by the Khmer Rouge after his boat strayed into Cambodian waters.

Choeung Ek (The Killing Fields)

Located about 17 km south of Phnom Penh, Choeung Ek was once an orchard and a Chinese graveyard. The remains of 8,985 people, many of whom were bound and blindfolded, were exhumed in 1980 from mass graves in this longan orchard. Some graves have been left untouched, and fragments of human bone and bits of cloth can still be seen protruding from the soil after heavy rains.

More than 8,000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are displayed in the Memorial Stupa, erected in 1988. From 1975 to 1978, about 20,000 men, women, children, and infants, who had been detained and tortured at S-21, were transported to Choeung Ek for execution. A tree with a reddish tinge to its bark was used by soldiers to kill babies by bashing them against it before throwing them into the pit.

Reflecting on the Horrors

Visiting these sites was a sobering reminder of the horrors that took place. The skulls on display often show signs of bludgeoning because bullets were expensive, and the Khmer Rouge didn't want to alert the Vietnamese army.

Evening Return

After returning to the hostel, I had a large tuna wrap, french fries, and a glass of beer for USD 5. The meal was a small comfort after such an intense day.

Reflections

Day 2 was emotionally heavy, filled with historical atrocities and solemn reflection. For those following my journey, I hope these updates provide a vivid picture of the experiences and challenges along the way.

Cheers to the adventures ahead and the stories yet to unfold! 🌏✨🏞️🕊️

Stay tuned for more updates as I continue my travels! 🌞✨

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