Day 2: 100 Days

Weather Update: Snow with Sunny Periods. High 2c

Elevation Above Sea Level: 40 Metres

Morning Plans and Unexpected Snow

This morning, the sky was overcast, but I planned to visit the Mosque and the Grand Bazaar. During breakfast, a light flurry of snow began to fall. At first, it wasn’t much, but the slushy snow didn't feel like trudging through rain, forcing me to rethink my plans. About an hour later, the sun peeked through the clouds, and I seized the opportunity to head outside. I took the underground metro, just a few minutes walk from my hostel. The journey to the nearest station by the Mosque took only twenty minutes. When I emerged from the station, another brief flurry of snow greeted me. I stopped to ask for directions and, to my surprise, found myself speaking to an Irishman who pointed me the right way. As we chatted, the sky suddenly darkened, and within moments, heavy snow began to fall. The snowfall was thick and wet, full of moisture like rain, and I had no choice but to take shelter in the nearest bar. For an hour, I watched as enormous snowflakes—the largest I’d ever seen, even after 35 years of living in the UK—blanketed the streets. Then, as quickly as it arrived, the snowstorm passed. The wind remained bitterly cold, but the sun was shining once again.

Exploring the Nuruosmaniye Mosque

The Nuruosmaniye Mosque is an architectural marvel built in 1755. Commissioned by Ottoman Sultan Mahmud I in 1749, the mosque was completed under the reign of Osman III after Mahmud I’s passing. It was named "Nuruosmaniye" or "The Light of Osman" due to its abundance of windows, which flood the interior with natural light.

The mosque was constructed as part of a larger complex (külliye) that included a madrasa (religious school), an imaret (soup kitchen), a tomb, a public fountain, and a library with an extensive collection of books and manuscripts. It is considered the earliest example of Ottoman Baroque architecture, featuring grand ornamentation, a large dome, an emphasis on light, and a mihrab that resembles a church apse. The unique polygonal courtyard adds to its distinctiveness.

Getting Lost in the Grand Bazaar

Just behind the mosque lies the Grand Bazaar, a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and bustling stalls. Walking through it can be daunting; the endless side streets and passageways can easily disorient you. At first, I felt lost, but I soon realized that many of the stalls follow a similar pattern—if you’ve seen one street, you’ve seen them all. The items for sale seem repetitive, but the history of the bazaar is what truly captivates.

Built in 1460 by Fatih Sultan Mehmet, one of the great Ottoman sultans, the Grand Bazaar is a vast, covered market with domed ceilings. The foundation of the bazaar was established with the Cevahir Bedesten, the first covered marketplace. Over time, various shops and stalls were integrated, forming a thriving commercial hub. The Grand Bazaar became a vital part of the Silk Road, connecting traders from Europe, the Middle East, and China. During the Ottoman era, merchants were grouped into guilds, ranked according to their social and economic roles. At one point, no new traders or shops could be added, meaning that joining a guild was only possible if a merchant retired or passed away—often requiring a significant financial investment. Whether this system still exists today, I’m not sure, but if it does, it means that generations of families have worked here for centuries.

Reflections on the Day

Despite its overwhelming nature, the Grand Bazaar holds a timeless charm, a place where history and commerce blend seamlessly. My journey through these historic sites today was filled with unexpected moments—snowstorms, chance encounters, and hidden stories waiting to be discovered.