Day 197-258: Flixbus to Gdańsk
Weather: Sunny, 17-26°C
Elevation: 11 metres (36 ft)
Leaving Warsaw behind, I boarded a Flixbus north to Gdańsk — or, as history knows it, Danzig. The five-hour ride wound through peaceful countryside under blue skies, the kind of day that makes travel feel lighter. There’s always a ripple of anticipation with a new city: Will the hostel be easy to find? Will I get lost? Will I misplace something again? I’ve lost gear plenty of times, but travel has a way of giving back, too — one person’s loss does become another’s gain.
The bus and railway stations sit side by side at the edge of the Old Town, so I stepped off straight into the heart of Gdańsk. My routine never changes: first, find a bar, order a cold beer, and study the map before heading to the hostel. This time, the walk through cobbled streets was easier than expected — and unforgettable. The Old Town, nearly destroyed during World War II, has been painstakingly rebuilt, its facades glowing with a history of resilience.
First Impressions of Gdańsk
Not everything went smoothly. A broken tooth from a pizza at 01 Pizzeria has left me with an insurance battle, forcing me to return to Warsaw. Still, setbacks aside, Gdańsk’s warmth shines in the people I’ve met — travellers from New Zealand, Australia, Poland, Norway, Denmark, Germany, and America. Encounters like these remind me why I’m still on the road.
A City Built on History
Gdańsk has worn many faces. After World War I it became the Free City of Danzig, governed under the League of Nations. But on September 1, 1939, the German attack on Westerplatte — just outside the city — marked the beginning of World War II. Local Jews were murdered in the Holocaust, while Poles and Kashubians faced brutal persecution.
It struck me that I’ve now stood at two infamous places: the bridge in Sarajevo where World War I ignited, and Westerplatte where World War II began. Let’s hope I never walk into the spark of World War III.
Walking the Gates of Gdańsk
The Old Town is encircled by historic gates — a perfect walking route for any visitor. Each one carries a slice of Gdańsk’s story:
Highland Gate (Brama Wyżynna) – Built in 1588, the ceremonial start of the Royal Route.
Golden Gate (Złota Brama) – Ornate arch from 1612–14, symbolising Peace and Freedom.
Green Gate (Zielona Brama) – Renaissance gateway to the river embankment, once intended for Polish kings.
Cow Gate (Brama Krowia) – A 14th-century Gothic water gate for leading cattle to pasture.
Dog Gate (Brama Psia) – Small gate used by fishermen, named after the dog patrols kept nearby.
St. Mary’s Gate (Brama Mariacka) – Leads to the city’s most picturesque street and St. Mary’s Basilica.
Chlebnicka Gate (Brama Chlebnicka) – Richly decorated Gothic trading gate.
Crane Gate (Brama Żuraw) – A medieval port crane, once the largest in Europe.
Stągiewna Gate (Brama Stągiewna) – Two round towers guarding Granary Island, built in 1517.
World War II Museum
Gdańsk’s World War II Museum is a must-visit. Built mostly underground, the exhibits lead you on a three-hour self-guided journey through the darkest years of the 20th century. The cost — just 22 złoty for seniors — is nothing compared to the emotional weight of the experience. School groups file through daily, ensuring the memory of Polish suffering and resilience is never lost.
Solidarity and the Shipyards
Post-war Gdańsk wasn’t just about ruins and rebuilding. The Lenin Shipyard became the birthplace of the Solidarity movement in 1980, led by electrician Lech Wałęsa. What began as a fight for workers’ rights grew into a movement that challenged the communist regime itself, inspiring change across Eastern Europe. By 1989, Solidarity’s persistence brought free elections to Poland, and Wałęsa himself later became President. Today at 84, he remains a symbol of courage.
Landmarks Beyond the Old Town
The Gdańsk Crane – A 15th-century marvel combining a water gate and giant hoisting machine. Burnt in WWII, it was restored in the 1950s and today stands as both a museum and an icon of the city’s maritime past.
Malbork Castle – Just 25 minutes by train, this UNESCO site is the largest brick castle in the world. Built by the Teutonic Knights, it survived centuries of warfare, although World War II left heavy scars. The scale alone — 21 hectares enclosed by defensive walls — makes it one of Europe’s greatest fortresses.
This is not mine, but here is a video copy and paste. https://youtu.be/Oi15Ju50lHw
St. Mary’s Basilica
Known as the Crown of Gdańsk, this Gothic church is the largest brick church in the world, accommodating up to 25,000 people. Destroyed in 1945, it has been rebuilt piece by piece, with ongoing restorations even in recent years.
This is not mine, but here is a video copy and paste. https://youtu.be/bG-22FTXCPQ
Astronomical Clock
Inside St. Mary’s, Hans Düringer’s 15th-century astronomical clock is a wonder. Its restored figures still perform their procession at noon — I was lucky to have a clear view.
Fahrenheit Monument
Celebrates Daniel Fahrenheit, the Gdańsk-born scientist who gave us the Fahrenheit temperature scale.
Granary Island
Once home to over 300 granaries storing 250,000 tons of grain, it was key to Gdańsk’s wealth. Destroyed in WWII, it has been reborn as a hub for tourism and leisure.
Final Thoughts
Poland’s history may be heavy, but Gdańsk shows how a city can rise from ashes. Around every corner, old and new architecture blend seamlessly, each facade worth a second look. You might photograph the same street twice and discover something different each time.
Staying here longer than planned has given me time — too much at times — to reflect on life, family, and the losses that still weigh heavily. Travel can magnify those feelings. But with my laptop finally repaired and new journeys ahead, I’m ready to push forward. First, a return to Warsaw to battle insurance over my broken tooth, and then on to the next country.
If we’ve crossed paths on the road, and you can host me for a few days when I pass through your corner of the world, I’d love to reconnect.
📧 Contact: a.matthews2453@gmail.com