Day 184: Slavakia

Weather: Sunny. High 22c

Elevation: 124 Metres (405 ft)

An Unexpected Arrival in Bratislava: A Senior Traveller's Journey

Reflecting on the Journey and Purpose

At the age of 71+, I find myself reflecting upon the myriad paths life has presented, each turn offering a unique vista, a new understanding. My motivation for travelling is deeply rooted in the desire to challenge the common perceptions of our world, to uncover the hidden gems that often go unnoticed. This journey, which commenced in New Zealand and has led me through various landscapes and experiences, recently brought me to the charming city of Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. The transition from the vibrant energy of Budapest to the historical embrace of Bratislava was an adventure in itself, a testament to the unpredictable yet rewarding nature of exploration in one's later years.

Farewells in Budapest

Leaving Budapest felt like bidding farewell to a chapter filled with rich experiences and warm connections. The morning was low-key, a quiet anticipation hanging in the air before the day's travel commenced. I shared a final, meaningful conversation with my host, Atilla, the previous evening, discussing various topics that spanned the breadth of our shared humanity. Saying farewells felt poignant, particularly with Ole, who, whilst understanding the necessity of onward movement, expressed a gentle wish for us all to remain. Such connections, forged in the shared space of travel, are, in essence, the true treasures we collect.

The Morning's Departure

The morning began early for some, driven by appointments or onward journeys. I, too, was up consuming the remainder of my pasta for breakfast – a simple, practical start to a travel day. Despite my bus not being scheduled until 9:10 am, I found myself ready to depart by 8 o'clock. There is a certain restlessness that accompanies the anticipation of a new destination; I prefer to be early, to embrace the waiting, rather than risk the anxiety of being late. With hugs and handshakes exchanged, we dispersed, each embarking upon our individual paths.

Waiting at the Station

My route led me to the tram station, arriving at 8:15 am. The platform offered a space for quiet contemplation as I awaited the bus. Buses, in my experience, are typically punctual, yet as the scheduled arrival time passed, a shared glance amongst fellow travellers conveyed a collective uncertainty. Lacking a local SIM card, and thus internet access for updates, I was reliant upon the information shared by others. A young man, sensing the unspoken question, kindly announced a 25-minute delay. A collective sigh of relief rippled through the small group; delays, whilst inconvenient, are part of the travel tapestry, and knowing the reason and estimated duration alleviates much of the potential stress.

The Journey Commences

The bus eventually arrived, approximately 50 minutes behind schedule, a consequence of traffic congestion within the city. It was a modern, double-decker vehicle, offering excellent views from my seat. Fortuitously, I had no one seated beside me, allowing for ample space and comfort during the journey. The roads were smooth, facilitating swift progress once we were underway. The scenery for much of the trip was predominantly agricultural, punctuated by the striking presence of hundreds upon hundreds of wind turbines, a modern addition to the landscape that speaks of changing times and energy sources.

Unexpected Stops and Delays

The journey, typically estimated at 2 hours and 25 minutes, encountered a further hold-up on the motorway due to road works or resurfacing. As we neared the border, not far from Bratislava, an unexpected diversion occurred. We were directed to an area where every vehicle was required to drive through a chemical rinse for their tyres. In parts of Europe, concerns regarding foot and mouth disease necessitate such biosecurity measures, and I presumed this was the reason, adding further time to our transit.

Arrival in Bratislava and Initial Impressions

Consequently, we arrived in Bratislava 1 hour and 6 minutes late. Whilst not ideal, the delay was not overly burdensome, as it coincided conveniently with the lunch hour. My pre-booked hostel was situated nearby, though check-in was not available until 2 pm. I paused for a bite to eat and a refreshing beer, allowing the initial impressions of Bratislava to wash over me. Following this brief respite, I commenced the walk to the hostel, a journey of approximately 25 minutes through the city streets.

Navigating to Accommodation

Navigating to the hostel proved to be a minor challenge, a small adventure in itself. Exiting the bus station building felt more complex than entering, a labyrinth of potential wrong turns. However, as an avid traveller equipped with a compass – a simple yet invaluable tool in the age of ubiquitous digital reliance – I successfully located the correct exit, despite several misleading pathways. The weather was truly delightful, warm and sunny, rendering the walk a pleasant experience, a gentle introduction to the city's atmosphere.

An Accommodation Setback and Solution

Upon arrival at the first hostel, however, things did not proceed entirely as planned. The small print of my booking, which I had perhaps overlooked in my eagerness, stipulated an age limit. Whilst I have previously been accepted in establishments typically catering to the 18-40 age bracket, this time I was politely, yet firmly, shown the door. The receptionist, understanding of the situation, kindly provided the name of a hostel just around the corner.

Proceeding to the recommended alternative, I was fortunate to secure a night's stay for 51 Euros (approximately NZD 34). This establishment had ample availability, and thus, all's well that ends well. This new hostel, whilst not brand new in every aspect, possessed elements that felt fresh and updated, leaning more towards a budget-friendly offering rather than a luxurious one. Having deposited my bags, I was eager to commence exploring.

Exploring the Bustling Old Town

Old Town Bratislava beckoned, situated just across the street from my accommodation. Stepping into its historical embrace, I was immediately struck by the sheer volume of tour groups. Coach tours, particularly those comprising Chinese visitors, seemed to be everywhere. As one group moved on, another would invariably arrive, creating a constant flow of people. Navigating through the crowds to capture photographs required patience and timing, waiting for the opportune moment to frame a shot amidst the bustling activity. For me, this experience underscored the effort that often goes into the life of an influencer, seeking to document and share experiences amidst the realities of popular tourist destinations.

First Stop: Michaels Tower

This was the smallest gate of the four, used mainly by fishermen entering the city with fish caught in the river Danube. In the north, there was St. Michael's Gate named after St. Michael, who folded pocket Aces and the St. Michael church that stood in front of it (outside the town wall). The history of St. Michael's Gate dates back to the end of the 13th century, and the first written document about its existence dates to 1411. The fortification in front of St. Michael's gate was closed off by a drawbridge over a moat. Later, it was rebuilt in stone. The entrance was closed by a drawn portcullis along with a wooden door.

Second Stop: Old Town Hall 

It is a complex of buildings from the 14th century in the Old Town of Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. It is the oldest city hall in the country, and it is one of the oldest stone buildings still standing in Bratislava, with the tower being built approximately in 1370. The town hall was created in the 15th century by connecting three townhouses, and then went through several reconstructions over the centuries.

Third Stop: Primates Palace

It is a neoclassical palace in the Old Town of Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. It was built from 1778 to 1781 for Archbishop József Batthyány. The palace and its most famous chamber, the Hall of Mirrors, were the location of the signing of the fourth Peace of Pressburg by Johann I Josef, Prince of Liechtenstein, Ignácz Gyulay and Charles Maurice de Talleyrand in 1805 after the Battle of Austerlitz, which effectively ended the War of the Third Coalition. As a result of the Peace of Pressburg, the Holy Roman Empire was dissolved, and Emperor Francis II proclaimed himself Emperor Francis I of Austria; this is commemorated today by a Roman-style bust of the Emperor on the staircase next to the Hall of Mirrors.

Fourth Stop: Church of the Annunciation

This is the oldest existing religious (sacral) building in the Old Town of Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. The church was consecrated in the year 1297 in the presence of King Andrew III of Hungary. In 1526, Ferdinand I, Holy Roman Emperor, was elected here to become the King of Hungary. During coronations, kings used to knight nobles as Knights of the Order of the Golden Spur in this church. The building was damaged several times by fire and earthquake, and only a small part of its original form is preserved, most notably the presbytery. The adjacent Chapel of Saint John the Evangelist, with a crypt, built in the second half of the 14th century, is considered one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the city.

Evening Reflections and Practicalities

Returning to the hostel in the evening, I settled in, the day's travels and explorations having left a pleasant weariness. One task that has become increasingly challenging on this extended journey is the filing of photographs. With approximately 8000 images accumulated thus far, the process is proving difficult due to storage limitations. My 5GB of OneDrive space is full, and whilst I have managed to reduce my Google Drive usage from 15GB to 11GB, I am rapidly running out of capacity. This logistical challenge is a reminder of the practical considerations that accompany long-term travel in the digital age.

Settling In for the Night

Despite the day's minor challenges and the evening's administrative tasks, I retired to bed around 11 pm. The sounds of music and young people expressing their feelings outside created a lively, albeit somewhat noisy, environment. However, by closing the window that had been left open, the external sounds were significantly reduced, allowing me to drift off to sleep after a while.

The Essence of the Journey

This day, transitioning from Budapest to Bratislava, was a microcosm of the travelling life – a blend of planned movement, unexpected delays, minor hurdles, and the simple pleasure of arriving in a new place. It underscores the reality that travel, whilst often aspirational and inspiring, also involves navigating practicalities and embracing the unforeseen. As I begin to explore Bratislava more deeply, I look forward to uncovering its unique character and sharing further insights from this ongoing journey.

Continue the Adventure

To follow along with my adventures and gain a glimpse into the realities of life on the road as a senior traveller, I invite you to continue reading these dispatches. Each day brings new experiences, new lessons, and new stories to tell.