Day 180/181: Budapest
Weather: Sunny. High 21c
Elevation: 96 Metres (315 ft)
Budapest Through My Eyes: A Journey Along the Danube
Hello fellow adventurers! Andrew here, checking in from another incredible stop on my journey around the world. My latest destination is the magnificent city of Budapest, often called the "Pearl of the Danube." I arrived here after a pleasant bus ride from Croatia – a country, I must say, that impressed me with its cleanliness and stunning scenery, giving even my home of New Zealand a run for its money! The journey into Hungary was smooth until we crossed the invisible border, where the roads decided to remind me I was in a new place with a bit more bump and rattle.
Shantee ( Meaning Peace) House:
Finding my hostel was straightforward enough, thanks to a little help from Google Maps and my own two feet. It was about a 25-minute walk from the bus station, a distance I find quite manageable and a great way to get an immediate feel for a new neighbourhood. First impressions of the hostel were excellent – my host, Borri, was a bundle of positive energy, exactly what you need when arriving in a new city. She made me feel right at home and gave me a good tour of the place.
Now, settling in is one thing, but exploring is the real reason I'm here! My hostel is on the Buda side of the river, which means getting to the Pest side, where many of the main attractions are, requires a bit of travel. It's a walk of over 3 kilometres to the Danube, but thankfully, the number 19/49 tram is a convenient option to get into the centre. I considered hiring a pushbike, but at 13 euros for the day, it was surprisingly expensive compared to other places I've been – I could get an electric scooter in Cambodia for less! So, the tram it is.
The tram stop is just a short walk from the hostel, and with trams running every 10 minutes, you're never waiting long. The newer trams are quite comfortable, though you do see some older models still in service, perfectly functional for the locals. My host suggested getting off at the third bridge, but I'd recommend sitting on the left side and hopping off when you see the cable car – it puts you right where you want to be for exploring the Buda Castle District.
Ascending to History: The Buda Castle District
The Buda Castle District is a must-see, perched on a hill overlooking the Danube. It's a place steeped in history, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the city. Getting up there can be part of the adventure itself, with a steepish climb that is accessible, but the Funicular is another option you might like to consider.
The Budapest Palace Funicular (Cable Car)
One of the most charming ways to ascend to the Buda Castle is via the historic Budapest Palace Funicular, also known as the Budavári Sikló. This picturesque cable car has been operating since 1870, connecting the Chain Bridge area on the riverbank to the top of Buda Castle Hill. It's more than just transport; it's a step back in time.
The Funicular is famous for its vintage wooden cabins and unique design that gracefully climbs the slope. As you ride, the views of Budapest unfolding below are simply magnificent. It's a short journey, but it offers an easy and unique way to reach the Castle District, which, by the way, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site – a testament to its historical and cultural importance.
Now, I must confess, I missed the Funicular on my first attempt! I got off the tram at the third bridge as suggested and ended up walking up to the Palace further along. I didn't even realise the Funicular was there until later, and by then, I wasn't about to pay just for the up-and-down experience after I'd already made it to the top! However, for those who prefer to avoid the uphill walk or simply want the classic Budapest experience, the Funicular is a fantastic option. It's worth noting that the return ticket was 5000 HUF (about 12.37 Euro or NZD 23.56) when I was there, which is a bit pricey, but as a tourist, sometimes these experiences are just part of the journey.
Once you're at the top, the Castle District is a joy to explore. The cobblestone streets invite you to wander, and there are several famous sights within easy reach.
Buda Royal Palace
The Buda Royal Palace, also known simply as Buda Castle, is the historical heart of the district. This vast complex has been the residence of Hungarian kings for centuries. The first castle was completed way back in 1265, but the grand Baroque palace you see today was primarily built between 1749 and 1769. It suffered significant damage during the Siege of Budapest in World War II and was rebuilt in a more simplified Baroque style during the communist era.
Today, the Palace houses several important institutions, including the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest Historical Museum, and the National Széchényi Library. While I'm not a huge museum enthusiast myself, the sheer scale and history of the building are impressive. When I visited, the area around the Palace was bustling with tour groups – lots of bus tours rather than cruise ships, with coaches lined up along the street. It seems stopping for a beer here is a popular pastime for tourists, and I happily joined in!
Imagine yourself walking the same grounds where kings and queens once strolled. King Sigismund, a Holy Roman Emperor, significantly expanded the palace in the late Middle Ages, making it one of the largest Gothic palaces of its time. Buda became an important artistic centre during this period. Standing there, you can almost feel the weight of history.
Matthias Church
Just a short walk from the Palace is the stunning Matthias Church, officially known as the Church of the Assumption of the Buda Castle. This is a truly magnificent piece of architecture, with its distinctive patterned roof tiles and intricate details. The square in front of it was packed with people taking photos and posing – it's amazing how taking a photograph has evolved into a full-blown performance these days!
Approaching the entrance, I was stopped by the ticket checker and directed to join a queue across the square to buy an entrance ticket. Now, I have a personal conviction about paying to enter a house of worship. I stood my ground and explained that I wouldn't pay to enter God's house, quoting scripture. To my relief, I was allowed in without having to pay, so I could pray. It seems churches these days often feel like they're levying a tax, which I find a shame – a donation is one thing, but a mandatory fee feels different.
The history of Matthias Church is fascinating. It was the site of the "Marian Miracle" in 1686 during the siege of Buda by the Holy League. A wall of the church, which the Ottoman occupiers were using as a mosque, collapsed due to cannon fire, revealing an old statue of the Virgin Mary hidden behind it. As the statue appeared before the praying Muslims, their morale reportedly collapsed, and the city fell that same day. It's a powerful story embedded in the very fabric of the building.
Fisherman's Bastion
Right next to Matthias Church is the Fisherman's Bastion (Halászbástya), one of Budapest's most iconic historical monuments. Like the Castle District, it's part of the UNESCO World Heritage site. What makes the Fisherman's Bastion so special are its Neo-Romanesque lookout terraces, which offer unparalleled panoramic views across the Danube to the Pest side of the city.
The Bastion's main façade stretches about 140 metres along the Danube, with seven high-pitched stone towers. These towers symbolise the seven chieftains of the Hungarians who founded Hungary in 895. The original walls here were part of the castle fortifications built in the 1700s. Historians believe this section of the wall was protected by the guild of fishermen who lived below in the area known as Fishtown or Watertown – hence the name.
Walking along the terraces, the view is simply breathtaking. You can see the Parliament building, the Chain Bridge, and the Pest skyline stretching out before you. It's a view that truly captures the grandeur of Budapest. One part of the bastion has even been turned into a restaurant, offering paying guests fabulous, unobstructed views – a tempting spot for a coffee or a meal with a view.
Leaving the Castle District, I stopped back down at ground level for a refreshing beer before heading back to the hostel. It had been a day filled with history, stunning architecture, and incredible views.
Practicalities for the Senior Explorer in Budapest
Based on my experience and what I've learned, here are a few tips for fellow senior travellers considering a trip to Budapest:
Getting Around: Budapest has a good public transportation system. The trams, like the 19/49 I used, are generally comfortable and frequent. The metro is also an option, though be prepared for stairs or escalators. Walking is a great way to see the city, but distances can be significant, especially between Buda and Pest. Consider purchasing a travel pass for ease of use.
Accessibility: While Budapest is an old city, efforts are being made to improve accessibility. The Funicular is a good option for reaching the Castle District without a steep climb. While I stay in hostels as part of my journey, Budapest offers a wide range of accommodation options, from budget-friendly guesthouses to comfortable hotels.
Reflections and the Journey Continues
Back at the hostel, I had some wonderful conversations with fellow travellers – Attila from Australia, who's been on the road for 15 years, Trent from America, here for medical reasons due to costs back home, and Ole from Norway. These interactions are such a valuable part of my travels, reminding me of the diverse stories and reasons people have for being out in the world.
Budapest, even with just a couple of days under my belt, has already shown me its incredible blend of history, architecture, and vibrant life. Walking the streets, seeing the buildings that have stood for centuries, and taking in those magnificent views across the Danube – it truly does transport you. I hope through my words, you can imagine yourself there, feeling the history and wishing you could visit one day.
My journey is far from over. I'm here in Budapest for a couple more days, and I'll be sure to share more updates as I continue to explore this fascinating city and the world beyond.
Remember, travel is possible at any age. It's about adapting, planning smart, and keeping that spark of curiosity alive. My journey is also about raising awareness for Arthritis in New Zealand, a condition that affects so many. By sharing my travels, I hope to show that life and adventure continue, even with challenges.
If you're enjoying following along, I invite you to keep up with my journey on my website, inspireseniorstravel.com. You can see where I've been on the world map, view photos, and read more of my blog posts. If you feel inspired and would like to support my travels or donate to arthritis research, you can find links on my homepage. Every bit helps in keeping this journey going and supporting a cause close to my heart.
Until next time, keep that adventurous spirit alive!
Andrew