Sarajevo: Walking Through History, Seeing Through My Eyes

Hello friends, and welcome back to the journey! As you know, I'm travelling the world, one step, one bus, one train at a time, sharing the incredible sights, sounds, and stories I encounter along the way. My goal is to bring the world to you, right there in your living room, especially for those of you who might not have the chance to embark on such an adventure yourselves. Please think of me as your eyes and feet on the ground, exploring fascinating places and sharing every detail, from the grand historical sites to the quiet moments of reflection.

Sarajevo is a city I was particularly eager to experience. Its name carries so much history, so many layers of culture and resilience. I spent a couple of days immersing myself, just wandering and letting the city unfold around me. The weather was perfect – sunny and a warm 23°C – ideal for exploring on foot, which, as you know, is my preferred way to truly get to know a place.

Walking The Streets:

I set off early, the morning air crisp, ready to wander along the Miljacka River. I planned to see some of the city's most iconic spots: the Yellow Fortress, the Latin Bridge, the Cable Car, the Emperor's Mosque, the Sacred Heart Cathedral, and the Gazi Husrev Beg Mosque. Along the way, I stopped and picked up a delicious pancetta French stick – a simple pleasure, but those are often the best, aren't they? It cost me 7.60 BAM, which is about €3.89 or NZD 7.43. Fuel for the day's exploration!

The Latin Bridge: Where History Turned

My first significant stop was the Latin Bridge. Standing on this bridge, it’s almost surreal to think about the immense historical weight it carries. It looks like a charming, old stone bridge, typical of the Ottoman era, spanning the gentle Miljacka River. But this little bridge in Sarajevo is forever linked to a moment that changed the world.

A Moment in History:

On June 28, 1914, right at the turning from the Right Bank into a street nearby, Gavrilo Princip assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand, the heir to the Austro-Hungarian throne. This single act triggered the July Crisis, which rapidly escalated into the beginning of the First World War. For a time during the Yugoslav era, the bridge was even renamed Princip's Bridge, before its name reverted to the Latin Bridge after the Yugoslav Wars. It’s a powerful reminder of how seemingly small places can be the stage for pivotal global events.

Looking At History:

Standing there, I tried to imagine that day, the crowds, the tension. Today, it’s a peaceful spot, with people strolling across the river, and the city going about its day. It’s a place for quiet contemplation, a chance to reflect on the past and appreciate the present peace. It’s easily accessible, a flat walk across, allowing you to pause and take it all in.

The Emperor's Mosque: A Place of Peace

Leaving the Latin Bridge, I crossed over towards the Emperor's Mosque, which is just a short walk away on the right bank of the river. I arrived during prayer time, so I spent a little while sitting quietly in the courtyard. It was a moment of calm, a chance to just sit, observe, and let my thoughts settle. There’s a cemetery attached to the mosque, where several prominent people are buried, adding to the sense of history and reverence.

Sarajevo's Oldest Mosque:

The Emperor’s Mosque holds the distinction of being Sarajevo’s oldest mosque, and one of the most ancient in all of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It’s believed that Isa Bey Ishaković, the very founder of Sarajevo, commissioned its construction soon after the city was established in 1462. He built it in honour of Sultan Mehmed II “the Conqueror.” The original structure suffered significant damage during an attack in 1480, and a total reconstruction was undertaken during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. It was at this time that the mosque took on the form we see today.

Sitting there, I felt a connection to the centuries of history that have unfolded within those walls and in that courtyard. It’s a beautiful, serene place, and the courtyard is flat and easy to navigate, making it a comfortable stop for anyone wanting a moment of peace and historical appreciation.

The Yellow Fortress: A Climb Worth the View

Next on my list was the Yellow Fortress, or at least part of it! I knew it involved a climb, and indeed, it was a steep ascent upwards. It took me about 30 minutes, and yes, I had to rest on several occasions! But that’s part of the journey, isn’t it? Knowing your limits and taking the time you need. And let me tell you, the effort was rewarded. From the fortress, the views across the whole valley of Sarajevo are simply wonderful. With the weather being a warm 23°C, the light was perfect for seeing the city spread out below.

A Defensive Bastion:

The Yellow Fortress, or Yellow Bastion, is a cannon fortress situated at the entrance of the "Walled City of Vratnik." It was constructed between 1727 and 1739 in an area known as Jekovac. Historically, it served as one of the key defence points for the city, notably against the Austro-Hungarian troops in 1878. Like many historical structures, it has been damaged and rebuilt several times over the centuries, with the most recent renovation taking place in 1998.

The climb down was certainly a welcome activity after the climb up! While the path is paved, it can be a bit uneven, so sturdy shoes and taking your time are essential. For those who find steep climbs challenging, there are other ways to enjoy views of Sarajevo, but if you are able, the perspective from the Yellow Fortress is truly special and gives you a real sense of the city's layout within the valley.

The Sarajevo Cable Car: Soaring Above the City

After descending from the fortress, I made my way towards the cable car. On this particular day, it was closed for maintenance, which was a slight disappointment, but I was hopeful my stay would allow me time to ride it later. And thankfully, on my last day, I managed to catch it! The ride cost 30 BAM (about €15.34 or NZD 29.32). Was it worth the 30 BAM? Honestly, perhaps not entirely for the cost, but it was a very nice ride and offered a completely different perspective of the city.

A Phoenix Rises:

The Trebević cable car has a fascinating history. It first opened to the public in 1959, providing a vital link between the city and Mount Trebević. It operated for many years but faced numerous problems and repairs, eventually being banned from further repairs in 1989 due to safety concerns. Tragically, during the Bosnian War (1992–1995), the cable car was completely destroyed. However, in a wonderful act of rebuilding and hope, it was reconstructed between 2017 and 2018 and officially reopened on April 6, 2018. The new system is modern and efficient, with 33 cabins capable of transporting up to 1,200 passengers per hour, with a smooth ride lasting just nine minutes each way.

The height to the top is 1160 metres (3810 ft). From up there, I could see what was left of the 1984 Sarajevo Olympic toboggan run. It’s now very much in decay, a canvas for taggers, but you can still visualise the athletes speeding down that relatively steep course. I even had the opportunity to walk down a section of the actual concrete run – a unique experience, albeit a slightly melancholic one, seeing it in its current state. It was during this walk that I encountered a group of teenagers who deliberately and carelessly discarded their empty water bottles and packaging. I felt compelled to say something, but they just laughed. It was a sad moment, seeing that lack of care for the environment. But even that is part of the reality of travel, seeing the good and the not-so-good. The cable car itself is a fantastic, accessible way to get up the mountain and enjoy those expansive views without any strenuous climbing.

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque: The Heart of Baščaršija

When I put my feet back down on solid ground after the cable car ride, I continued towards the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. It’s located close to the cable car station and right in the vicinity of the bustling Baščaršija business district. When I arrived, the mosque was closed again, which was a shame as I would have liked to see inside.

An Ottoman Masterpiece:

The Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque is considered one of the most important Ottoman structures in Bosnia and Herzegovina and is a central landmark in Sarajevo's old town. Built in the 16th century, it is a stunning example of classical Ottoman architecture. It was commissioned by Gazi Husrev-beg, a powerful Ottoman governor, and designed by the renowned architect Mimar Sinan. The mosque complex also includes a madrasa (Islamic school), a library, and a clock tower. It has been the spiritual and cultural heart of Sarajevo for centuries, surviving wars and changes, a testament to the city's enduring heritage.

Even though I couldn't go inside, just seeing the exterior and being in its presence in the heart of Baščaršija was a powerful experience. The area around the mosque is flat and easy to walk in, allowing you to soak in the atmosphere of the old bazaar. My next venture, which I accidentally stumbled upon, even though it's not on the map I have of Sarajevo. These ruins deserve recognition.

Tašlihan or Tašli han (Stone Inn) is a former caravanserai that was located on the site of the current summer garden and an open bar of the Hotel Evropa in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is the third stone caravanserai in Sarajevo, built in the period from 1540 to 1543, as an endowment of Gazi Husrev-beg, after his death. It was added to Gazi Husrev-beg's bezistan on its western side. It was square, and its length was 47 meters. It had a fountain in its yard, on the pillars of which was a small mosque. Upstairs were the passenger rooms. Domestic and foreign merchants had their shops within Tašlihan. It is believed that this caravanserai served for trade more than for passenger traffic. The fire of 1879 severely damaged Taslihan and made it unusable.

Reflecting on Sarajevo

I enjoyed my time in Sarajevo. It’s a city that stays with you. The hostel I stayed in was very good, with a social and friendly vibe. I met some wonderful fellow travellers there, including Dima from Russia and Khan, a truly well-seasoned traveller who seemed to have been everywhere! It’s always great to connect with people from different parts of the world and share stories.

Sarajevo is a city of contrasts – of deep history and vibrant present, of poignant reminders of the past and hopeful steps towards the future. It’s a city that is very accessible on foot in its historical core, with options like the cable car to help you see more if mobility is a concern. It’s a place where you can easily spend your days wandering, sitting in cafes, and simply absorbing the unique atmosphere.

Tomorrow, I'm off to Split in Croatia, a change of pace and scenery as I head towards the coast. My original plan was Zagreb, but sometimes travel plans change, and you have to be flexible! That’s part of the adventure, too.

For those of you following along, I hope this glimpse into Sarajevo has transported you there, even just for a few moments. Imagine yourself walking across the Latin Bridge, sitting in the peaceful courtyard of the Emperor's Mosque, or seeing the city spread out below from the cable car. These are experiences I want to share with you, to show you the beauty and history that exists in our world.

My journey is about more than just seeing places; it's about connecting, learning, and sharing. It's about showing that adventure is possible at any age, and that the world is still full of wonder waiting to be discovered.

If you're enjoying these dispatches from the road and want to keep following my adventures as I make my way across the globe, please follow my journey on my world map and blog at inspireseniorstravel.com You can see where I am, read about my latest experiences, and hopefully, feel inspired to see the world through my eyes.

Until the next stop, keep exploring, even if it's just from your armchair!

Andrew