Day 168: Sarajevo

Weather Update: Sunny. Occasional Shower. High 19c

Elevation: 518 Metres (1699 ft)

Sarajevo: Finding Beauty and Resilience in the Heart of the Balkans

Hello everyone, and welcome back to the blog! It’s Andrew here, and I’m continuing my journey, one step at a time, exploring this incredible world and sharing my experiences with you. As you know, my travels are about more than just seeing famous sights; they’re about immersing myself in the local rhythm, connecting with people, and showing that age is truly just a number when it comes to satisfying that wanderlust that calls to us. And, of course, every step I take is also about raising awareness for Arthritis back home in New Zealand, a cause very close to my heart.

Sarajevo:

My latest stop brought me to Sarajevo, a city with a history as rich and complex as the patterns on a traditional Bosnian carpet. Getting here was, shall we say, an experience. The overnight bus from Belgrade was a stark reminder that budget travel isn't always glamorous. Cramped seats and minimal space made for a challenging night, leaving my legs protesting, a familiar complaint for anyone who’s spent too long in an uncomfortable position, and something I’m particularly mindful of with my journey and the challenges many face with mobility. It certainly ranked high on my list of less-than-comfortable bus rides, though thankfully not quite topping the memorable one in Vietnam!

The border crossing into Bosnia was a rather peculiar affair. Leaving Serbia was straightforward, but the Bosnian side felt… tense. The officer’s aggressive and condescending tone, limiting my initial stay to a strict 72 hours and directing me to the police station for any extension, was quite unsettling. It was a stark, slightly creepy welcome that reminded me that travel, even in seemingly peaceful times, can present unexpected bureaucratic hurdles. Despite the rocky start and limited sleep, the thought of exploring Sarajevo kept my spirits up.

Arriving at the bus station at 6:33 am, I faced a 2.9 km walk to my hostel. The initial part was easy enough, but then I saw it – a hill. And not just any hill, but a proper, challenging incline with a gradient between 1-12 and 1-10 for a good 1.3 km. Now, at 72, after hip surgeries, taking on a hill like that might seem daunting to some, but I see it as a challenge to be met. It’s a reminder of what the body is still capable of, even with a few more years and a bit of wear and tear. I took it slow and steady, appreciating the morning air and the unfolding city views as I ascended. It’s these moments of physical effort, pushing through a bit of discomfort, that make the arrival at your destination feel even more rewarding.

I almost missed the hostel, distracted by a local supermarket – a necessary stop for any traveller needing to refuel. The hostel, Kucha, was right next door, and while I couldn't check in immediately, just knowing I was there was a relief. A quick bite of toast with what I thought was margarine but turned out to be sour cream (a culinary surprise!), and I was ready to explore.

Sarajevo’s historical heart beckoned, a downhill walk this time, which was a welcome change! Along the way, I grabbed a chicken French stick roll. The price seemed a bit higher than I’d paid elsewhere, a small observation that reminds you that costs can vary, and it’s always good to have a rough idea of local prices.

My first planned stop was Bosnia’s largest cathedral, the Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart. To my disappointment, it was closed. This was a shame, as I was eager to see inside. It got me thinking, though, about the accessibility of places of worship. While I understand the need for closures for services or special events, it does seem counterintuitive to close the doors of a church to those seeking a moment of peace or reflection, regardless of the reason. I’ve always found a profound sense of calm and often inspiration within these historical buildings, and the idea of being able to truly feel the space, perhaps even through song, as the acoustics can be incredible, is something I cherish.

The Sacred Heart Cathedral: A Glimpse of Neo-Gothic Beauty

Even from the outside, the Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart is a magnificent sight. Built in 1889 in the striking Neo-Gothic style, it’s the seat of the Archdiocese of Vrhbosna. The architect, Josip Vancaš, drew inspiration from famous cathedrals like Notre Dame in Dijon and St. Teyn in Prague, but managed to create something unique that fits beautifully into the Sarajevo landscape, with the historic Gazi Husrev Bey’s Hamam nearby.

While I couldn't explore the interior on that particular visit, I know from my research that it’s richly decorated with frescos by the Italian-German painter, Alexander Maximilian Seitz. It also houses the tomb of Josip Stadler, who initiated its construction. In front of the cathedral stands a statue honouring Pope John Paul II, who visited Sarajevo in 1997, a powerful symbol of peace and tolerance in the city’s post-war era.

For senior travellers, the area around the cathedral is generally flat and easy to navigate on foot. While I couldn't verify the interior accessibility myself due to the closure, many historic cathedrals can have steps or uneven flooring. It’s always a good idea to check ahead or be prepared to take your time and watch your step. The beauty of the exterior and the surrounding square are certainly worth a visit, even if you can’t go inside.

Stepping Back in Time in Bascarsija

Leaving the cathedral area, I continued my descent towards the true heart of Sarajevo: Bascarsija. This bustling old bazaar dates back to the 1400s and is a vibrant hub of activity. The name itself tells a story – "Bas" meaning "main" and "carsija" meaning "business district" in Turkish. It truly is the main business district, a place where history and daily life intertwine.

Bascarsija was heavily damaged during the siege of Sarajevo in the Bosnian War, but it has been painstakingly rebuilt, bringing it back to its former glory. Walking through the cobblestone streets, you’re surrounded by an abundance of souvenir shops, stalls, and traditional craft workshops. The air is filled with the scent of Bosnian coffee and grilled meats, and the sounds of chatter and hammering from the coppersmiths create a lively atmosphere.

This area is relatively flat and easy to walk around, though the cobblestones can be uneven in places, so comfortable, sturdy shoes are a must. There are plenty of places to sit and rest, grab a coffee or a bite to eat, and simply soak in the atmosphere. It’s a fantastic place to wander at your own pace, observe local life, and find unique souvenirs. For those with limited mobility, taking it slow and being mindful of the uneven surfaces is key. The compact nature of the old town means that many attractions are within easy reach of each other.

The Iconic Sebilj Fountain

Right in the heart of Bascarsija Square stands the iconic Sebilj. This wooden fountain is one of Sarajevo’s most recognisable symbols. In Ottoman times, there were several sebiljs throughout the city, providing free water to the thirsty. The current Sebilj in Bascarsija was built in 1913, replacing earlier ones destroyed in a fire.

The Sebilj is more than just a fountain; it’s a meeting point, a landmark, and a perfect spot for a photo. Legend has it that if you drink water from the Sebilj, you will return to Sarajevo. I certainly hope that holds true! The area around the Sebilj is a lively square surrounded by cafes and restaurants, making it an ideal place to take a break, enjoy a drink, and watch the world go by. The square is flat and easily accessible.

The Peaceful Oasis of Bascarsija Mosque

Just a stone’s throw from the Sebilj is the Havadža Durak Mosque, more commonly known as the Bascarsija Mosque. While the exact date of its construction isn't known, it’s mentioned in a manuscript from 1528, indicating it’s been a part of the Bascarsija landscape for centuries.

The mosque, with its main dome, open portico, and adjacent stone minaret, is a beautiful example of Ottoman architecture. Like much of Sarajevo, it was damaged during the war but has been fully reconstructed. The courtyard, though not large, is a peaceful oasis in the middle of the bustling market. With its small fountain, roses, and tall poplar trees, it offers a moment of tranquillity and reflection.

Visiting mosques requires respectful dress, typically covering shoulders and knees, and women covering their heads. Removing shoes before entering is also customary. The courtyard is generally accessible, and while the interior might have a few steps, the peaceful atmosphere of the courtyard alone is worth experiencing. It’s a reminder of the diverse cultural and religious tapestry that makes up Sarajevo.

A Welcome Reunion at Kucha Hostel

After a day of exploring, I made my way back up the hill to Kucha Hostel. And what a wonderful surprise awaited me! Sitting there was Dima, a friend I’d met months earlier in Georgia. It’s moments like these, unexpected reunions with people you’ve connected with on the road, that truly highlight the magic of travel. We shared a big hug, and memories of our time in Georgia came flooding back.

I had stumbled into a birthday celebration, and I was immediately invited to join. The highlight was the delicious pizza made by an Dianna anArgentinian lady – truly some of the best pizza I’ve had, far surpassing the big chains you often find elsewhere. It was a lovely evening, filled with good food, good company, and that wonderful communal vibe that you often find in hostels. It was a perfect end to a day that had started with a challenging bus ride and a steep hill.

Staying in hostels might not be everyone’s first thought for senior travel, but I’ve found them to be fantastic places to meet people of all ages, share stories, and feel connected. Many hostels now offer private rooms, providing comfort and privacy while still allowing access to communal areas. It’s about finding what works for you and being open to different experiences.

Exploring Sarajevo as a Senior Traveller

Sarajevo is a city that rewards exploration, and with a little planning, it’s very accessible for senior travellers. Sarajevo’s old town is best explored on foot, but be mindful of the cobblestones and hills. Public transport, like trams are four types New, Olld, Older and very old which are easy to spot, and local buses tend be be very cheap and don’t feel pressured to keep up with a fast pace; enjoy the city at your speed. Be mindful of the hills and plan your routes accordingly because some sites needs you to climb.

Sarajevo is a city of incredible resilience and beauty. Its history is palpable, and its vibrant present is a testament to the strength of its people. From the historic Bascarsija to the poignant reminders of its recent past, it’s a city that touches your heart.

My journey through Sarajevo was a mix of challenges and delightful surprises, much like life itself. It reinforced my belief that travel is a powerful way to learn, connect, and grow, no matter your age. It also reminded me of the importance of taking things at your own pace and celebrating the small victories, like conquering a steep hill or reconnecting with a friend unexpectedly.

As I continue my travels, sharing these stories and raising awareness for Arthritis, I hope you feel inspired to embark on your adventures, whether they be across the world or closer to home. Every journey is valuable, and every step is a chance to discover something new about the world and yourself.

Thank you for joining me on this part of my journey. I hope you enjoyed seeing Sarajevo through my eyes and hearing about the experiences I’ve had. Your support, whether by following along or contributing to Arthritis research, means the world to me.

Until next time, happy travels!